
H SKETCHES OF LIBERIA: 



COMPRISING 



A BRIEF ACCOUNT 



OF THE 



GEOGRAPHY, CLIMATE, PRODUCTIONS, 






AND DISEASES, 



OF THK 






REPUBLIC OF LIBERIA. 



SECOND EDITION— REVISED. 



TO WHICH IS ADDED A BRIEF SKETCH OF THE HISTORY OF LIBERIA, AND A 
SUCCINCT ACCOUNT OF THE CUSTOMS AND SUPERSTITIONS OF 
THE CONTIGUOUS NATIVE TRIBES. 



BY J. W. LUGENBEEL, 

Late Oolonlal Physician and 17. S. Agent in Liberia. 



WASHINGTON : 

C. ALEXANDER, PRINTER, 



1853. 



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SKETCHES OF LIBERIA 



COMPRJSING 



A BRIEF ACCOUNT 



OF THE 



GEOGRAPHY, CLIMATE, PRODUCTIONS, 



AND DISEASES. 



OF THE 



REPUBLIC OF LIBERIA. 



SECOND EDITION— REVISED. 



TO WMICH IS ADDED A BRIEF SKETCH OF THE HISTORY OF LIBERIA, ANJJ A 

SUCCINCT ACCOUNT OF THE CUSTOMS AND SUPERSTITIONS OF 

THE CONTIGUOUS NATIVE TRIBES. 



BY J.W. LUGENBEEL, 

Late Colonial Physician and U. S. Agent in Liberia. 



WASHINGTON : 

C. ALEXANDER, PRINTER, 
1853 



SKETCHES OF LIBERIA 



PREFACE. 



A decided conviction of the necessity of 
a work in which the earnest inquirer may- 
find the principal topics of information 
that he may desire, respecting the Re- 
public of Liberia, is the motive which has 
induced the author of these sketches to 
consent to their publication. His long 
residence in Liberia, and the great care 
with which he endeavored to make obser- 
vations, and to acquire information from 
the most authentic sources, embolden him 
to believe that these ^ketches, presented as 
they are with the utmost ingenuousness, 
are worthy the candid consideration of all 
who desire a knowledge of the truth, re- 
specting the condition and prospects of the 
httle African Republic. Though they may 
possibly contain some slight inaccuracies, 
yet the author believes that a more truth- 
ful, comprehensive, and impartial account 
of matters and things as they really exist 
in Liberia, has not been given to the pub- 
lic. And with no other motive in view 
than a desire to impart needful and correct 
infornfiation, he leaves this little v/ork to 



the candid persual of the unbiassed reader ; 
in the hope that some good may result 
from this part of his labors in the cause of 
humanity. 

Washington, 1850. 

Preface to the Second Edition, 
The first edihon of these Sketches hav- 
ing met v/ith general approbation, and 
the necessity for an additional supply 
seeming to exist, the author has carefully 
revised the work — omitting some unimpor- 
tant portions, for the sake of brevity, and 
making such corrections and additions as 
he deemed necessary. 

The presentation of a simple and con- 
cise account of Liberiay as it is, for the in- 
formation of all earnest inquirers, and no 
consideration of pecuniary advantage, has 
prompted the Author to the publication of 
these Sketches. Copies of the work will, 
therefore,as heretofore, be furnished gratui- 
tously on application to the Secretary of the 
American Colonization Society in this city. 
Washington, Jane, 1853. 



CHAPTER i. 



geography 



Tlmt portion of the western coast of 
Africa, which has received the appellation 
of Liberia embraces a tract of country 
included between the parallels of 40 20' and 
lO 20' north latitude, extending from the 
Sherbro river on the north (near the 
southern boundary of the British Colony 
of Sierra Leone) to the Pedro river on 



the south ; a distance along the coast of 
about six hundred miles. The politicai 
jurisdiction of the Republic of Liberia em- 
braces about five hundred miles of this ter- 
ritory : that of the Colony of ''Maryland 
in Liberia" embraces about one hundred 
miles, to the north and east of Cape Pal- 
mas. All the territory which lies betweeii 



SKETCHES OF LIBERIA. 



Appearance of the Country— Water — Soil. 



these two points (except two or three 
small tracts,) has been purchased from the 
original proprietors and rightful owners of 
the soil. The first tract was purchased 
in the early part of 1822, embracing a 
small extent of territory in the vicinity of 
Cape iMesurado. Other portions have, at 
different times, been purchased — the great- 
er part within the last few years. The 
interior boundaries of the purchased tracts 
extend from about ten to forty miles 
from the coast. These boundaries may 
readily be extended as far as may be de- 
sirable, as the interior tribes are generally 
very willing, and some of them anxious 
to sell their territories. 

In no instance have the natives, from 
whom the land was purchased, been re- 
quired to remove their residences, or to 
abandon their usual customs, except that 
of trading in slaves, and the practice of 
such superstitious rites or ceremonies as 
tend to deprive any of their fellows beings 
of life. And, in all the written contracts 
which have been entered into between the 
Agents of the Colonization Society, or the 
authorities of the Republic, and the native 
chiefs, the latter have invariably obligated 
themselves, in behalf of the people over 
whom they presided, to conform to the 
laws and regulations of the Liberian Gov- 
ernment. 

As in most other countries, similarly 
situated, the land in the immediate vicini- 
ty of the ocean in Liberia, is generally 
low; and, in some places, it is very marshy. 
There are some elevated spots, how- 
ever ; such as those on which the towns 
of Monrovia and Harper are located. The 
land generally becomes more elevated to- 
wards the interior; and, in some places, 
within fifty miles of the coast, it is quite 
mountainous. 

Far as the eye can reach from the high- 
est points of land in the vicinity of the 
ocean, the whole country presents the ap- 



pearance of a deep, unbroken forest, with 
hill-top rising y.bove hill-top towards the 
vast interior; the country consisting, not 
as is supposed by some persons, of arid 
plains and burning sands, but of hills and 
valleys, covered with the verdure of per- 
petual s])ring. The country is well wa- 
tered : — many beautiful streams rnay be 
seen winding their way amidst blooming 
flowers and wild shrubbery; and many 
cooling springs of clear, sparkling water, 
invite the weary traveler to linger and 
quench his thirst. In all the settlements 
m Liberia, good water can be procured 
without much difficulty ; and though in 
the dry season, as in this country after a 
long dry spell in summer, some of the 
springs fail, for a tmie; yet, as good water 
can always be obtained by digging wells; 
and as many of the springs never failjihere 
need not be any fear about getting plenty 
of good water at any time in the year. 
. Soil. The soil of Liberia, like thAt of 
other countries, varies in appearance, 
quality, and productiveness. That of the 
uplands, though generally much inferior 
to that of ihe lowlands, is better adapted 
to some articles. The upland soil usually 
consists of a reddish clay, more or less 
mixed with soft rocks and stones, contain- 
ing considerable quantities of iron. That, 
of the lowlands, in the immediate vicinity 
of the ocean, consists principally of sand- 
Besides this sandy soil, there are two other 
varieties of lowland soil; one of which is that 
on the banks of the rivers, within a few 
miles of the sea: this consists of a loose, 
deep, black mould ; which is peculiarly 
adapted to the growth of those kinds of 
vegetables that thrive best during the dry 
season. Th'e other variety is that whicli 
is generally found extending back from 
the banks of the rivers, farther from the 
sea than the last named : this consists of a 
light colored clay, more or less tempered 



SKETCHES OF LIBERIA. 



# 



Rivers— St. Paul's— St. John's and Junk. 



with sand; and it is well adapted to almost 
every kind of vegetables that will thrive 
in tropical climates. 

Rivers. There are no very large rivers 
in Liberia; and, although some of them 
are from one-fourth to three-fourths of a 
mile wide, forJifty miles or more from 
their entrance into the ocean; yet none of 
*hem ».re navigable to a greater distance 
than twenty miles; the navigation being 
obstructed by rapids. The St. Paul's, the 
St. John's, and the Junk, are the largest; 
;tnd, indeed, they are the only rivers of 
iiny considerable length or width. The 
other principal rivers are the Galiinas, the 
Cape Mount, the Mechlin, the New Cess, 
the Grand Cess, the Sanguin, the Sinou, 
and the Grand Sesters. Some of these 
present a bold appearance at their mouths ; 
hut they are all comparatively short; and 
none of them are navigable for boats, or 
even for canoes, more than twenty or thirty 
miles, without obstruction by rocks or 
rapids. 

The St.. Paulas river is a beautiful stream 
of water. It is three-fourths of a mile wide 
;it the widest part, (at Caldwell,) and 
,\?)io«jt three-eighths of a mile wide at Mills- 
l)i!rg, about fourteen miles from its mouth. 

The banks of this river rise from ten t® 
twenty feet above the water ; and, except 
in places that have been cleared, they are 
rovered with large forest trees; among 
which may be seen the graceful palm, 
reiris^g aloft its green-tufted head, and 
.standing in all its pride and beauty, the 
ornament and the glory of its native land. 
The St. Paul's is perhaps the longestriver 
in Liberia. It is studded with many 
beautiful islands, abounding in camwood, 
palm, and many other valuable forest 
trees ; and its banks furnish many beauti- 
ful sites for residences. Many native ham- 
lets may be seen on the banks of this love- 
ly river — the homes of the untutored chil- 



dren of the forest — the benighted sons and 
daughters of Africa. The St Paul's bifur- 
cates about three miles from its mouth: 
the principal stream rolls on towards the 
ocean y while the other fork flows in a 
south-easterly direction, almost parallel 
with the beach, and unites with the little 
Mesurado river near its mouth; and thus 
an island is formed, about eight miles long 
and from one to two in width, called Bush- 
rod Island. This latter fork of the river 
is called Stockton Creek, in honor of Com. 
Stockton, who kindly aided in effecting 
the first purchase of territory. 

The St. John's river is also a beautiful 
stream. It is about sixty miles south-east 
of the St. Paul's; and it flows through that 
part of Liberia known as the Grand 
Bassa country. At the widest point, it is 
nearly or quite a mile wide. Its length, 
however, is supposed to be less than that 
of the St Paul's. The St John's is. also 
studded with numerous islands; the largest 
of which is Factory Island, about three 
miles from its mouth. The banks of this 
river also rise considerably above the wa- 
ter ; and the land bordering on it is also 
very productive. 

The Junk river, which is about equidis- 
tant from the other two named rivers, is 
the third in size and importance. The 
main branch is supposed to be equal in 
length to the St. John's. The northern 
branch, which is only about forty miles 
long, is noted as a thoroughfare between 
Monrovia and Marshall. At the place of 
embarkation, a few miles below its source, 
it is not more than five yards wide ; but it 
gradually expands to the width of more 
than half a mile. 

The appearance of the country along the 
banks of these rivers, and of the numer- 
ous little islands which they form, is high- 
ly picturesque. 

The banks of the St. Paul's and the St. 
John's, in many places, present encourag- 



t 



SKETCHES OP LIBERIA. 



Settlements— Monrovia. 



iftg scenes of agricultural industry; show- 
ing the handiwork of a people, whose so- 
cial condition is vastly superior to that of 
their aboriginal neighbors; and who are 
thus placing before the indolent and im- 
provident natives, illustrations of the great 
sxiperiority of the habits of civilized people 
to their own degrading customs ; examples 
which must eventually exert a pov/erful 
Bnfluence on the rninds and practice of the 
contiguous native tribes. 

And thus, while the mind of the travel- 
ler is oppressed by the melancholy consid- 
eration of the moral and intellectual dark- 
ness of the scattered tribes of human be- 
ings, whose desolate-looking hamlets fre- 
quently meet his view, as he wends his 
way amidst the dense forfsts of the uncul- 
tivated hills and dales of Africa; he is en- 
couraged to believe that the time will com.e 
when this extensive ''wilderness shall be 
made giad" by the labors of industrious 
agriculturists, and when this vast desert of 
intellectual and moral degradation "shall 
rejoice, and blossom as the rose." 

Settlememts. — The principal settle- 
ments in the Republic of Liberia are — 
Monrovia, New Georgia, Caldwell, Vir- 
ginia, Kentucky, Millsburg, Marshall, 
Edina, Buchanan, Bexley, Greenville, 
Readsville, Lexington, and Louisiana. — 
Besides these, there are a few other locali- 
ties, which are sometimes called by one 
name and sometimes by another. 

Momovia is the largest and oldest of all 
the settlements ; and it is the metropolis, 
rind the seat of government of the Repub- 
lic. It is located near the mouth of the 
Mesurado river, (a small stream about fif- 
teen miles long,) about fourmiles southeast 
of the entrance of the St. Paiil's river into 
the ocean, on an elevated site, immediate- 
ly in the rear of Cape Mesurado, in lati- 
tude 60 19' north. The highest part of 
the hill on which the town stands, and 
which is near its centre^ is about eighty 



feet above the level of the ocean, and 
about three-fourths of a mile from the sum- 
mit of the Cape, which is about two hun- 
dred and fifty feet above the sea. Cape 
Mesurado is a bold promontory, covered 
with massive forest trees and dense im- 
dergrowth ; except in places that have 
been cleared. On the summit of the Cape 
is a light-house and a fort; and along the 
sloping declivity, towards the town, there 
are several cleared lots, on which small 
houses have been erected; in some places 
affording very pleasant places of residence. 
The greater part of the promontory, how- 
ever, is very rocky. The course of the 
coast north of the Cape, forms a kind of 
bay, which generally affords safe anchor* 
age for vessels; and the cove, near the 
base of the Cape, affords as good a landing 
on the beach as can be found on almost 
any other part of the coast. 

The town of Monrovia, although more 
compact than any of the other settlements 
in Liberia, occupies a considerable extent 
of ground; being about three-fourths of a 
mile in length. It is laid OiTwith as much 
regularity as the location will allow; and 
the streets, of which there are about fifteen 
in number, have received regular names. 
The town is divided into lots of one-fourth 
of an acre> and most of the dwelling-houses 
have a lot attached to each of them. 
Most of the lots, and several of the streets, 
are adorned with various tropical fruit 
trees; and some of the gardens present a 
handsome appearance. The houses are 
generally one story or a story and a half 
high : some are two full stories. Many of 
them are substantially built of stone or 
brick ; and some of the best houses are 
built partly of both these materials. The 
state-house is a large stone building, which 
was erected in 1843. In the rear of this 
building, is a substantial stone prison. 
There are three commodious stone houses 



SKETCHES OP LIBERIA. 



New Georgia— Caldwell— Virginia— Kentucky and Millsburg. 



for public worship in the town — Metho- 
dist, Baptist and Presbyterian; nearly all 
of the professing christians in the place 
being attached to one of these religious de- 
nominations. 

At the base of the hill on which stand 
the principal dwelling houses, there are 
several large stone buildings, which are 
occupied as stores and warehouses. The 
dwellings of many of the citizens of Mon- 
rovia are not only comfortably, but ele- 
gantly, and some of them richly furnish- 
ed ; and some of the residents of this little 
bustling metropolis live in a style of ease 
and affluence, which does not comport 
with the contracted views of those per^ 
sons who regard a residence in Africa as 
necessarily associated with the almost en- 
tire privation of the good things of this 
Hfe. The population is about fifteen hun- 
dred, exclusive of native childi*en and 
youths who reside in the families of the 
citizens. 

JV€to Georgia is a small township, loca- 
?.ed on the eastern side of Stockton Creek, 
about five miles from Monrovia. It is oc- 
cupied principally by native Africans, who 
were formerly slaves. Upwards of two 
hundred of the liberated Africans who 
have been, or who now are, residents of 
New Georgia, were sent to Liberia by the 
United States Government, at different 
limes. Many of these have married per- 
sons who were born in the United States; 
F.nd have thereby become more strongly 
identified with the Liberians, as citizens 
of the Republic. Some of them are par- 
tially educated; and, a few years ago, one 
of them occupied a seat in the Legislature. 
As most of the citizens of New Georgia 
have taken the oath of allegiance, they are 
permitted to enjoy equal immunities with 
other citizens. 

Caldwell is situated on the southern side 
of <ih<e St. PauPa river. The whole settle- 



ment, which is divided for convenience into 
Upper and Lower Caldwell, is about six 
miles in length, extending along the bank 
of the river; the nearest part to Monrovia 
being about nine miles distant. The 
houses are from one hundred yards to a 
quarter of a mile, or more, apart; and, oS 
course, this settlement has not much ihe 
appearance of a to W'-n. Some of the most- 
enterprising farmers in Liberia reside at 
this place. The land about Caldwell if? 
generally remarkably productive. 

Virginia, or New Virginia, as it is some- 
times called, is a new settlement, com^' 
menced in the early part of ]846. It is also 
on the St. Paul's river, opposite Caldwell. 
This is the site of the United States Recep- 
tacle for Uberated Africans, erected in 1847. 

Kentucky is an agricultural settlement be- 
tween Virginia and Millsburg, on the 
northern bank of the St. Paul's river, com- 
menced a few years ago. 

Millsburg is the fdivihest settlement from 
the sea-coast of any in Liberia. It is sit- 
uated on the northern bank of the St Paul's 
river, about fourteen miles from its mouth 
and about twenty miles from Monrovia. 
Like the other farming settlements, the 
houses generally are separated at a con- 
siderable distance from one another; so 
that the whole township extends about a 
mile and a half along the bank of the river, 
Millsburg is perhaps the most beautiful, 
and one of the most healthy locations in 
Liberia. The land is remarkably good, 
and of easy cultivation. A flourishing Fe- 
male Academy is in operation at this place, 
under the care of Mrs. Wilkins, missiona- 
ry of the Methodist Episcopal Church. 
And, on the opposite side of the river is 
White Plains, a mission station of the same 
Church. 

Besides these settlements, there are nu 
merous other points along the St. Paul's 
river, which are occupied by farmers; so 



SKETCHES OF LIBERIA. 



Marshall— Edina — Buchanan — Bexley — Greenville, &c. 



that the banks of this beautiful stream pre- 
sent, in many places, the appearance of ag- 
ricultural industry and comfort. 

Marshall is situated at the mouth of the 
Junk river, about thirty-five miles south of 
Monrovia. Most of the houses in this 
place are built along the sea-shore. This 
place is particularly noted for the manu- 
facture of lime; which is obtained altogeth- 
er from oyster and other shells. Most of 
the lime that is used in Liberia is made in 
the vicinity of Marshall. The river, at 
ti.i3 place abounds in oysters. And though 
they are not quite equal to those procured in 
some parts of the United States, yet they are 
quite palatable, when properly served up. 

FJina is located on the northern bank 
of i;he St. John's river, about half a mile 
fn>m its mouth. It is handsomely situated; 
;ind, in reference to the healthiness of the 
location, it is perhaps equal to most others 
in Liberia. Some of the citizens of Edina 
are engaged in the cultivation of exporta- 
l)le articles of produce. 

Ji*j.J:hanan is located at the junction of 
iKc Benson river (a small stream) with the 
St. John's, nearly opposite Edina. Several 
of die citizens of this place also have given 
considerable attention to the cultivation of 
coffee, arrow-root, and ginger, during the 
liist few years. A steam saw-mill intro- 
duced in 1851, is in successful operation 
ai this place. 

A new settlement has recently been form- 
ed at the site of the one destroyed by Gran- 
de), a native chief, and his allies, in No- 
vrimber, 1851, near Fish Town, a native 
village, about three miles below the mouth 
of t.he St. John's river. 

Hi-xUy is situated on the northern side of 
the St. John's river, about six miles from 
its mouth. This place, like the settlements 
rtii the St. Paul's river, occupies a consid- 
erable extent of territory. It is divided 
iriJo Upper and Lower Bexley; both to- 



gether extending about four miles along 
the river, Bexley is a fine farming settle- 
ment; the land is excellent; and the loca- 
tion is comparatively healthy. Several 
of the citizens of this place are pretty ac- 
tively engaged in cultivating articles for 
exportation. This is certainly one of the 
most interesting settlements in Liberia. 
The mission of the Baptist Board of For- 
eign Missions is located at this place; also 
the head-quarters of the Southern Baptist 
Mission. 

Greenville is situated at the mouth of 
the Sinou river, about one hundred and 
thirty miles by sea southeast of Monrovia. 
Like the settlement of Marshall, most of 
the houses are located along the sea-shore. 
Greenville presents a handsome appear- 
ance from the anchorage, it is one of the 
most healthy settlements in Liberia. The 
land in the immediate vicinity of Green- 
ville, and indeed of all the other settle- 
ments near the sea-shore, is much inferior 
to that on the banks of the rivers several 
miles from their entrance into the ocean. 
Consequently, those persons who expect 
to live by "the sweat of their brow," in 
the cultivation of the soil, will find itgreat- 
ly to thpir advantage to locate beyond the 
sound of the breaking surf of the ocean. A 
steam saw-mill is in operation at this set- 
tlement — the first one introduced into Li- 
beria. 

Readiville, Lexington, and Louisiana, arc 
farming settlements on or near the Sinou 
river, from two to five miles above Greexi- 
ville. 

In every settlemenf, there is one place, 
or more, of public worship, in which reli- 
gious services are regularly held. And, 
in nearly every settlement, there is one 
regular day and Sunday school, or more. 
The principal deficiency in the system of 
education in Liberia, consists in the ina- 
bility to procure the services of a sufficient 



SKETCHES OF LIBERIA 



Maryland in Liberia — Ciiinate and seasons— rainy and dry seasons. 



number of competent teachers. There 
are several very good schools at Monro- 
via, and some of the other settlements ; 
but the facilities tor thorough intellectual 
training are not commensurate with the 
wants oi the people in all the settle- 
ments. 

As the census has not been taken for 
.several years, I cannot give the exact pop- 
ulation of the different settlements, and the 
exact aggregate population of the Repub- 
lic. The whole number of inhabitants of 
the Republic, exclusive of the natives, is 
probably at present, about seven thousand. 
The native population is probably about 
two hundred thousand; many of whom 
have adopted habits of civilized life; and 
many of the youth of both sexes have 
enjoyed, or are enjoying, advantages of 
education. 

Maryland in Liberia. 
•The Colony of "Maryland in Liberia," 
which has always maintained a distinctive 
character, and which has always been un- 
der a different government from the Re- 
public of Liberia, was established in the 
early part of the year 1834. Ever since 
that period, it has continued to progress in 
int»^rest and importance; and, at present, it 
occupies a prominent position, as an asy- 
lum for the proscribed descendants of Ham; 
to whom the siren song of "My native 



land" loses its mellowing cadence in the 
thrilling, patriotic sound of "Sweet land of 
liberty." 

This interesting Colony is located about 
two hundred and fifty miles by sea south- 
east from Monrovia. Harper, the princi- 
pal town or settlement, is situated near the 
point of the Cape, (Cape Palmas, a bold 
projecting promontory, which is one of the 
most prominent points or land-marks on the 
western coast of Africa;) and, from the 
anchorage, it presents a handsome appear- 
ance. At the distance of about half a mile 
from Harper is the town of East Harper; 
in which are several beautiful sites for 
residences, commanding a fine view of the 
ocean, and of the adjacent hills and vales. 
Between these two villages, there are two 
large native towns, comprising several 
hundred houses, which present a marked 
contrast with the comfortable-looking dwel- 
lings of the colonists. At the distance of 
about two and a half miles beyond East 
Harper is another settlement, called Tub- 
mantown. Most of the land near the road 
between these two villages is occupied by 
the colonists; so that on both sides of this 
highway, many neat little cottages may be 
seen, and many handsome gardens and 
small farms. 

The whole population of Maryland in Li- 
beria, exclusive of aborigines, is about 
1,000. 



CHAPTER II. 

CLIMATE AND SEASONS. 



The territory of Liberia being within 
a few. degrees of the equator, of course 
the nature of the climate is essential- 
ly different from that of the United 
States, the vicissitudes of spring, sum- 
mer, autumn, and winter not being ex- 
perienced in the equatorial regions of 
the earth; there being continued sum- 
mer weather throughout the year; in- 



terru[Ued only by occasional slight varia- 
tions in the therm ometrical state of the at- 
mosphere; caused by the greater strength 
of the ordinary breezes, and by clouds and 
rain; which latter prevail so much more 
during one half of the year than during- 
the other half, as to give rise to the usual- 
ly recognized division of the year into two 
reasons — the tcet or rainy season, and the 



10 



KETCHES OF LIBERIA. 



January — harmattan wind. 



drif season; or, in common parlance, <Hhe 
rams" and "the dries;'' the former of 
which ansv/ers nearly to summer and au- 
tumn, and the latter to winter and spring, 
in temperate latitudes. 

This unqualified and somewhat arbitrary 
division of the year, however, has led 
many pei'sons into error, respecting the 
real state of the weather, during these two 
seasons; some supposing that during the 
rainy season, more or less rain falls every 
day; and, on the other hand, during the 
dry season, an uninterrupted spell of hot 
and dry weather prevails for six succecsive 
months. This is so far from being the 
case, that, as a general rule, it may be 
stated, that some rain falls in every month 
in the year; and, in every month, there is 
some fine, clear, pleiisant weather. During 
my residence in Liberia, I seldom ob- 
served a deviation from this general rule. 
Much more rain, however, falls, during 
the six months beginning with May, than 
during the remaining six months beginning 
with November. It is difficult, however, 
to determine at what time each of the two 
seasons actually commences and closes. 
As a general rule, I think the middle of 
May may be set down as the beginning of 
the rainy season, and the middle of No- 
vember that of the dry season. In order, 
however, to give an accurate and compre- 
hensive statement of the character of the 
climate and seasons of Liberia, it may be 
the best plan to note the vicissitudes of 
each month in the year, as they are usual- 
ly presented. 

January is usually the driest, and one of 
Uie warmest months in the year. Some- 
times, during this month, no rain at all 
falls; but generally there are occasional 
slight showers, particularly at night. 
Were it not for the sea-breeze, which pre- 
vails with almost uninterrupted regularity, 
through the greater part of the day, oa al- 
most every day throughout the year, the 



weather would be exceedingly oppressive, 
during the first three or four months of the 
year. As it is, the oppressiveness of the 
rays of the tropical sun, is greatly mitiga- 
ted by the cooling breezes from the ocean; 
which usually blow from about 10 o'clock 
A. M. to about JO P. M., the land-breeze 
occupying the remainder of the night and 
morning; except for an hour or two about 
the middle of the night, and about an hour 
in the forenoon. During these intervals, 
the atmosphere is sometimes very oppres- 
sive. The regularity of the sea-breeze, 
especially in themonthof January, is .some- 
times interrupted by the longer contin- 
ance of the land-breeze, which occasional- 
ly does not cease blowing until 2 or 3 
o'clock P. M. This is what is called the 
harmattan wind ; about v,'hich a great deal 
has been written ; but which does not 
generally fully accord with the forced de- 
scriptions of hasty observers or copyists. 

The principal peculiarity of the harmat- 
tan wind consists in its drying properties, 
and its very sensible coolness, especially 
early in the morning. It seldom, perhaps 
never, continues the whole day ; and usu- 
ally not much longer than the ordinary 
land-breeze, at other times in the year. 
When this wind blows pretty strongly, 
the leaves and covers of books sometimes 
curl, as if they had been placed near a 
fire ; the seams of furniture, and of wooden 
vessels, sometimes open considerably, and 
the skin of persons sometimes feels pecu- 
liarly dry and unpleasant, in consequence 
of the rapid evaporation of both the sen^ 
sible and the insensible perspiration. But 
these effects are usually by no means so 
great as they have been represented to be. 
What is generally called the harmattan 
season usually commences about the mid- 
dle of December, and continues until the 
latter part of February. During this time, 
especially in the month of January, ike 
atmosphere has a smoky appearance, sim- 



KETCHES OF LIBERIA. 



11 



February, March, and April — Tornadoes. 



ilartowhatis termed Indian summer in 
ihe United Stales, but generally more 
hazy. 

The average height of the mercury in 
4he thermometerj during the month of 
January, is about 850. It seldom varies 
more than ten degrees during the twenty- 
four hours of the day ; and usually it does 
not vary more than four degrees between 
the hours of 10 A, M. and 10 P. M. In 
this month, however, 1 have seen the 
mercury stand at the lowest mark, at 
which I ever observed it in Liberia, that 
is, at 680. This was early in the morn- 
ing, during the prevalence of a strong 
-and very cool land-breeze. In this month 
I have also seen the mercury stasd at the 
highest mark, at which I ever observed 
it — that is, at 90^. The air is sometimes 
uncomfortably cool before S o'clock A. 
M., during this month. 

During the month of February, the 
weather is generally similar to that of Jan- 
uary. There are, hovv^ever, usually more 
frequent showei-s of rain ; and sometimes, 
towards the dotse of this month, slight 
tornadoes are experienced. The harmat- 
tan haze generally disappears about the 
iast of this month ; and the atmosphere 
becomes clear. The range of the ther- 
mometer is about the same as in January. 

March is perhaps the most trying month 
in Ihe year to the constitutioiia of new- 
comers. The atmosphere is usually very 
oppressive during this month, the sun be- 
ing nearly vertical. The occasional show- 
ers of rain, and the slight tornadoes, which 
occur in this month, do not usually miti- 
gate the oppressiveness of the atmosphere, 
as might be supposed. The variation in 
the state of the atmosphere, as indicated 
by ^he thermometer, seldom exceeds i60 
-during the whok of this month. The av- 
erage height of the mercury is about 85^. 

^pril is significantly called the " tornado 
sTJonth," the most niimerous and most 



violent tornadoes usually occurririg during 
this month. The ordinary state of the 
weather, in reference to the degree of heat, 
and its influence on the system, is not very 
different from that of the three preceding 
months. The showers of rain are usually 
more frequent, however; and the visitations 
of those peculiar gusts, called tornadoes, 
are much more common in April, than in 
any other month. These are sudden, and 
sometimes violent gusts, which occur much 
more frequently at night, than during the 
day. Although they usually approach 
suddenly and rapidly, yet certain premoni- 
tory evidences of their approach arei almost 
always presented, which are generally 
easily recognized by persons who have 
frequently observed them. They generally 
commence from northeast, or east-northeast, 
and rapidly shift around to nearly south- 
east ; by which time the storm is at its 
height. 

At the commencement of a toraado, dark 
clouds appear above the eastern horizon, 
which rapidly ascend, until a dense lurid- 
looking mass spreads over the whole hemi- 
sphere As tire heavy mass of clouds as- 
cends and spreads, the roaring sound of 
the wind becomes stronger and louder, 
until suddenly it bursts forth in its fury ; 
sometimes seeming as if it would sweep 
away every opposing object. Very seldom, 
however, is any material injury sustained 
from these violent gusts. The scene is 
sometimes awfully grand, for fifteen or 
twenty minutes, during the formation and 
continuance of a heavy tornado. Some- 
times the whole hemisphere presents a scene 
of thedeepestgloom ; thedarkness of which 
is momentarily illuminated by vivid flashes 
oflightning, in rapid succession ; and some- 
times tremendous peals of thunder burst 
upon the solemn stillness of the scene. 
The rain seldom falls, until the violence of 
the gust begins to subside ; when a torrent 
usually pours down for a short lime, seldom 



i'S 



SKETCHES OF LIBERIA 



May— June— July— August— September— October— November. 



more than half an hour ; after which, the 
wind shifts around towards the west ; and 
•'•enerally. in about an hour from thecom- 
jr.encement of the tornado, the sky be- 
uymea serene, and sometimes almost cloud- 
less. 

The weather during the month of May is 
usually more pleasant, than in the two 
preceding months. The atmosphere is gene- 
rally not quite so warm and oppressive. 
Sometimes copious and protracted showers 
of rain fall, during the latter half of thip 
month. Tornadoes also occasionally ap- 
pear in the month of May. The average 
height of the mercury in the thermo- 
meter is usually two or three degrees 
less than during the four preceding 
Kionths. 

Juni is perhaps the most rainy month in 
I lie year. More or less rain usually falls 
nearly every day or night in this month. 
Although there are sometimes clear and 
pleasant days in June ; yet there are seldom 
iwenty.four successive hours of entire free- 
liom from rain. The sun is, however, 
:i3ldom entirely obscured for a week at a 
time ; and he frequently shines out brightly 
and pleasantly, in ihe interstices between 
the floating clouds, several times during the 
<iay ; occasionally for several hours at a 
tin^e. During this month, as in all the 
Other rainy months, more rain always falls 
at night than in the day time ; and, indeed, 
there are very few days in the year^ in 
which the use of an umbrella may not be 
ili.^pensed with some time during the ordi- 
))ary business hours. In the month of 
June, the atmosphere is always consider- 
d.h\y cooler than in the preceding months ; 
nod I generally found it necessary to wear 
woolen outer as well as under garments ; 
and to sleep beneath thick covering at 
night, in order to be comfortably warm. 
The sensible perspiration is always much 
les3, during this month, aod the five suc- 
r>'Miiig months, than during the other 



j six months in the year. The mercury in 
I the thermometer seldom rises above 80O in 
this month ; the average height being about 
750, 

During the months of July and August^ 
a great deal of rain also generally falls ; but 
perhaps less in both these months than in 
the preceding one. There is always a short 
season of comparatively dry, and very 
1 pleasant weather,^ in one or both of these 
months. This season usually continues 
from three to five weeks ; and generally 
commences about the 20th or 25th of July. 
Sometimes, for several successive days, the 
sun shines brilliantly and pleasantly all day; 
and no rain falls at night. The air, how- 
ever, is always refreshingly cool and agree- 
able. This is perhaps the most pleasant 
time in the year. This is what is commonly 
called " the middle dries." It seems as if 
Providence has specially ordered this tempo- 
rary cessation of the rains, for the purpose of 
permitting the ripening and gathering of the 
crops of rice, which are generally harvested 
in August. 

September and October are also generally 
very rainy months ; especially the former. 
Sometimes more rain falls in September, 
than in any other month in the year. To- 
wards the close of October, the rains begin 
to be less copious ; and sometimes slight 
tornadoes appear, indicative of the cessation 
of the rainy season. The sea breezes are 
usually very strong, during these two 
months ; and the atmosphere is generally 
uniformly cool, and invigorating to the 
physical system. 

During the month of Mvember, the 
weather is generally very pleasant, the 
temperature of theatmosphere being agree- 
able to the feelings — not so cool as during 
the five preceding months,, and not so warm 
as during the five or six succeeding ones ; 
the average height of the mercury in the 
thermometer being about 820. Frequent 
showers of ;;ain usually fall in this month. 



■SKETCHES OP LIBERIA. 



■13 



December— Extremes of heat and cold. — Productions— Rice. 



both in the day and at night ; but general- 
ly they are of short duration. Slight tor- 
nadoes also generally appear in this month. 
The sun may usually be seen a part of 
everyday in the month; and frequently 
he is not obscured by clouds during the 
whole of the time in which he is above the 
Tiorizon. 

December is also generally a very pleasant 
month. Occasional slight showers of rain 
fall during this month, sometimes several 
sprinklings in one day, but seldom for 
more than a few minutes at a time. The 
mornings in this month are peculiarly de- 
lightful. The sun usually rises with bril- 
liancy and beauty ;and the hills andgroves, 
teeming with the verdure of perpetual 
spring, are enriched by the mingled melody 
of a thousand cheerful songsters. Nothing 
that I have ever witnessed in the United 
States exceeds the loveliness of a Decem- 
ber morning in Liberia. 

On the whole, I regard the climate of Li- 
beria asdecidedly pleasant ;notwiihstanding 
the scorching rays of the tropical sun, and 
the " abundance ofrain" which falls during 
the year, especially in the months of June, 
July, September and October. So far as 
the pleasantness of the climate and weatlier 



is concerned, 1 would decidedly prefer a 
residence in Liberia, to one in any part ot 
the United States. 

The extremes of the thermometrical state 
of the atmosphere may beset down at 65-' 
and90<^. I have never heard of the mercury 
in a good thermometer having sunk below 
the former, nor arisen above the latter point, 
in the shade. The average height of the 
mercury, during the rainy season, may be 
set down at about 760, and during the dry 
season at 64°. The mean temperature for 
the year is about 80^. 

In regard to the comparative health ine^t^ 
of the two seasons, 1 may state, that my 
observations fully convinced me, that tiu 
rainy season is more conducive to healtli 
than the dry season, in both new-comors 
and old settlers. In reference, however, 
to the acclimating process, I think that jio 
great advantage can be gained by arrivint;- 
at any particular time of the year, more 
than at any other time. Unneces.sary ex- 
posure to the heat of the sun in the dry 
season, and to the rain in the wet season, 
should alike be avoided. Care and pru- 
dence should be exercised by new-comers 
at all times during the year. 



CHAPTER IIL 

PRODUCTIONS. 



Nearly all the different kinds of grain, 
roots, and fruits, peculiar to intertropi- 
cal climates, thrive well in Liberia ; and 
many garden vegetables that belong more 
properly to temperate climates, may be 
raised, in quality not much inferior to 
the same kind of articles produced in cli- 
mates peculiarly adapted to their growth 
and maturation. 

The only kind of grain, however, 
that has yet been cultivated to any con- 
siderable extent, m Miccj which is the great 



staple of intertropical Africa, and the prin- 
cipal article of food of the numerous ab- 
original inhabitants. It is also used exten- 
sively by the Liberians. And it is un- 
doubtedly the most wholesome article ot 
food which can be used in that country. 
It is not cultivated very extensively by th«^ 
Liberians, in consequence of their being ablr 
generally to purchase it more cheaply from 
the natives, than the cultivation ofit would 
cost. In consequence, however, of theiti- 
crensing demand, it has, of late yeui.", 



/ 



14 



SKETCHES^ OF LIBEEIA. 



Indian Corn — Sweet Potatoes— Cassada — Yam. 



commanded a better price than formerly ; 
which has induced some of the citizens to 
engage in raising it. Until within the last 
few years, scarcely any persons attempted 
to raise it ; butatpresentthis valuablegrain 
may be seen growing in the neighborhood 
of several of the settlements in Liberia. 
Although it grows much better in low, wet 
land ; yet it thrives very well in land more 
elevated ; such as will produce most other 
articles usually cultivated. It is generally 
sowed in April, and harvested in August. 
Sometimes two crops may be made in one 
> ear ; but generally only one is made. It 
yields so abundantly, that, notwithstanding 
tl^e extreme indolence of the natives, who 
do not work on their farms three months 
in the year, they usually raise much more 
than they require. 

Indian corn, or maize, will grow very 
well on some lands in Liberia ; and al- 
though it does not thrive so well as in 
some parts of the United States ; yet 1 am 
quite satisfied that it might be cultivated 
rauch more extensively in Liberia than it 
ever yet has been. 1 have seen some fine, 
large ears of corn, that were raised on the 
St. Paul's river. The small-grained corn, 
ufiually called Guinea-corn, no doubt v/ill 
grow well in Liberia (Guinea, whence its 
j^ame ;) but strange to say» 1 seldom saw 
it growing there. The natives in the 
vicinity of the settlements seldom, if ever, 
raise it. 

A variety of esculent roots may be raised 
in Liberia ; the most common of which are, 
the sweet potato, cassada, yaniy and tania. 

Sweet potatoes may be raised in great 
abundance, with very little labor, on al- 
most every kind of land, at any lime 
during the year. I have seen them grow- 
ing freely in the sandy soil, within fifty 
yards of the ocean. The poorest persons 
inay easily have a sufficiency of this nu- 
tritious vegetable. Those raised in some 
parts of Liberia are very fine. They gen- 



erally thrive better in the rainy season j 
especially on the high lands ; but in some 
places, they thrive very well in the dry 
season, especially on the flat land bordering 
on the rivers ; and, in many places, they 
may be gathered during every month in the 
year, from the same piece of land. 

The Cassada (as it is usually called, but 
perhaps more properly cassava) is a shrub, 
which grows from four to eight feet in 
height, having several white fleshy root^^ 
covered with a coarse, rough skin. The 
stem of the shrub is round and jointed, 
having numerous branches, which are fur- 
nished at the upper part with alternate 
leaves, divided into three, five, or seven 
acute lobes. The root, which is the only 
part that is used,, arrives at perfection in 
from nine to fifteen months. The roots vary 
in size, from six to eighteen inches in length,, 
and from three to eight in circumference. 
In taste, when not cooked, it very much 
resembles the taste of a fresh chestnut. 
This vegetable may be raised abundantly,, 
on any kind of soil. It is the only vege- 
table, except rice, that is cultivated to 
any extent by the natives. It is usually 
prepared for use by being boiled, after the 
skin or rind ha& been removed, or by 
being roasted in ashes ; and, when 
properly cooked, it is very palatable and 
nutritious. The tapioca of the shops is 
the fecula of the root of the cassada. 

The Yam is a slender^ herbaceous vine,, 
having large tuberous roots, sometimes 
nearly round, but generally elongated, like 
the cassada, but much larger. The roots 
of the yam are sometimes three feet long,, 
and weigh twenty or thirty pounds. They 
usually arrive at perfection in four or five 
months ; and they yield very abundantly. 
The root of the yam is more farinaceous 
or mealy, when cooked, than that of the^ 
cassada — almost as much so as the Irish 
potato. They are more digestible than 
the cassada ; and I think more palatable.. 



KETCHES OP LIBERIA. 



i5 



Tania — B€aijs — Peas— Cabbages — ^Tomatoes— Cucumbers— Watermelons, tx.c 



Tlie yam is one of the most wholesome 
a»d nutritious esculent roots of any coun- 
try ; and it may be produced in any desired 
quantity in Liberia. 

Tania is a delicate, broad-leafed pk\nt, 
about two feet in height, having a bulbous 
root, which, when prepared like Irish po- 
tatoes, resembles those excellent vegetables 
very nearly in taste ; and it is a very whole- 
some and nutritious article of food. It 
may be raised easily and abundantly. 

There are other esculent roots, peculiar 
to tropical climates, which have not yet 
been introduced ; but which, no doubt, 
would thrive well in Liberia. 1 have al- 
luded particularly to those only which 
have been introduced, and which are cul- 
tivated there — those which I have seen and 
eaten myself. And, in addition to those 
articles to which I have alluded, I may 
name a fev/ other garden vegetables, that 
I have seen growing in Liberia : the most 
common of which are, Lima or butter beans, 
snap beans, black-eyed peas, cabbages, toma- 
toes, cucumbers, watermelons, pumpkins, 
muskmelons^ cantelopes, beets, radishes, and 
carrots, 

Lima beans may be raised abundantly, 
at any time during the year. In conse- 
quence of the absence of frost, the vines 
live and bear for several years ; and as the 
bean« are being continually reproduced, 
they may be gathered from the same vines, 
during every month in the year, and for 
three, four, five, or more, successive 
years» The vines yield in a few months 
nfter the planting of the bean, so that no 
family ought ever to be without this excel- 
lent vegetable. They are equal to those 
raised in any part of the Uni'ed States. 

Black-eyed peas may be raised in any 
necessary quantities. They come to ma- 
turity in about six weeks from the time of 
planting ; and they may be raised at any 
fime during the year. 

Cabbages do not thrive so well in Liberia 



as they generally do in the United States 
"that is, they do not produce so fine heads. 
They grow very rapidly ; and sometimes 
the stalk attains the height of several feet. 
They do not generally go to seed . When , 
however, good seed can be procured from 
other countries, and proper attention is 
given to the cultivation of the cabbage, 
fine, large, tender heads may sometimes 
be produced. 

Tomatoes may be easily raised ; and 
when the seed are procured from abroad, 
the fruit is large and well flavored — equfti 
to the produce of most other countries. 

Cucumbers will perhaps thrive as well 
in Liberia as in any other country. 

Watermelons thrive as well in some 
parts of Liberia, as in most parts of the 
United States ; especially when good seed 
can be procured from abroad. Some as 
fine watermelons as I ever saw were rais- 
ed in the vicinity of Monrovia. So f&t 
as I could learn, the best time to plant the 
seed is in March or April. 

All the other articles that I have enu- 
merated, and several other garden vege- 
tables, that seem to belong more properly 
to temperate climates, may be raised in 
Liberia without any difficulty, if the seed 
can be obtamed from those countries to 
which these vegetables seem to be pecu- 
liarly adapted. Hence, the necessity of 
importing seeds, if persons wish to have 
American vegetables on African tables. 
And here I would particularly recommend 
to persons who intend to emigrate to Li- 
beria, to take with them a variety of gar- 
den seeds. And, in order to protect them 
from being injured by the salt air of the 
ocean, I would advise that they should be 
sealed up in vials or bottles ; or wrapped 
in paper, and packed away in saw-dust. 

A great variety of fndls is raised in 
Liberia; many of which are indigenous. 
The principal fruits are, the orange, Ziirw, 
lemon, pine-applCt guava, mango, plantain, 



16 



SKETCHES OF LIBERIA. 



Oranges — Limes—Pine Apples— Guavas— Mango — Plantain. 



banana, okra, papaw, cocoanut, tamarind, 
pomegranate, granadilla, African cherry, 
Jifrican peach, soursop, sioeetsoji, sorrel, ca- 
cao, rose apple, and cHola. 

The Orange tree thrives as well perhaps, 
and beeirs as fine fruit in Liberia as in any 
other part of the world. The tree, when 
full-grown, is about the size of ordinary 
apple-trees in the United States, but much 
more handsome. One tree usually bears i 
as many oranges as an apple-tree of the i 
same size bears apples. Although ripe ' 
oranges may be procured at any time of I 
the year, yet there are two seasons at 
which they are more plentiful than at i 
other times. One season is about the mid- 1 
die of the year, and the other about the 
close of the year. It is not uncommon to 
see blossoms, buds, young fruit, and full- 
grown fruit, on the same tree, at the same 
time ; so that while some of the oranges 
are ripening, others are being produced. 
In the town of Monrovia, many orange 
trees may be seen adorning the sides of the 
streets, as well as in the yards and gardens 
of the citizens. 

Limes and lemons are in superabund- 
ance, in nearly every settlement in Li- 
beria. 

Pine-apples grow wild in the woods, in 
great abundance; and when allowed to ri- 
pen, before being pulled, they are very 
finely flavored. The apple grows out of 
the centre of a small stalk, one or two feet 
high, and it is surrounded by prickly, j 
pointed leaves or branches. I have seen i 
thousands of them, in half an hour's] 
walk. They are considerably improved j 
by cultivation in good, rich land. They 
are not, however, a wholesome fruit, al- 1 



atable, when uncooked ; though some 
persons are very fond of it. ft, however, 
makes the best preserves, and the best 
pies of any fruit with which I am acquaint- 
ed. The guava jelly, which is almost 
universally regarded as a very delicious 
article is made from this fruit. Though 
I believe the guava tree is not indigenous 
to Liberia, yet it grows so luxuriantly as 
to become a source of much inconve. 
nience in some places. 

The Mango, (or mango-plum, as it is 
usually called in Liberia,) also thrives 
well. It is the product of a handsome 
tree, about the size of an ordinary apple- 
iree. The fruit is about the size of an or- 
dinary apple, but oval, or egg-shaped. In 
taste, it approaches more nearly to the 
American peach, than any other tropical 
fruit I ever ate. The mango makes very 
superior preserves. 

The Plantain is a beautiful, broad-leated, 
tender, fibrous stalk, that grows to the 
height of from eight to fourteen feet. The 
leaves, which are the continuation of the 
fibrous layers of the soft, herbaceous 
j stalk, are generally about six feet long, 
and from one to three feet broad. The 
fruit-stem proceeds from the heart of the 
stalk ; and, when full-grown, it is about 
three feet long, and beautifully curved, 
extending about two feet beyond the 
cluster of fruit, and terminating in a singu- 
lar and beautiful purple bulb, formed of 
numerous tender layers, that can be easily 
separated. One stalk produces only one 
cluster or bunch of fruit; and, when this 
is removed, by cutting the stem, the stalk 
dies; but cions spring up from the origi- 
nal root, around the old stock, and in a 



though very palatable; and many persons ! few months, these also bear fruit, and then 



have made themselves sick by eating 
them too freely. 

Guavas grow very abundantly, on trees 
about the size of ordinary peach trees. 
This fruit resembles the apricot in appear- 
ance, but notm taste. It is not very pal- 



die, giving place to other new stalks. So 
that, in two or three years from the time 
of the first planting, the number of stalks 
and bunches of fruit will be increased 
six-fold, or more. The venerable parent- 
stock, as if loth to leave her rising pro- 



SKETCHES OF LIBERIA. 



It 



Banana — Okra^Papaw — Cocoanut. 



geny unsheltered from th« sweeping tor- 
nado, generally continues to spread her 
broad leaves over them, until they shall 
have attained a suflicient size to stand 
firmly before the destroying blast of the 
storm-king; and then, one by one, the ex- 
pansive leaves or branches wither, and 
fall to the ground, leaving the aged, worn- 
out stalk to be prostrated by the passing 
breeze. The fruit of the plantain is cyl- 
indrical and slightly curved, somewhat 
Hapering towards the end. It is usually 
from six to nine inches long, and one to 
two in diameter. At first, it is of a pale 
green color; but, when fully ripe, it is 
yellow. It arrives at maturity m about 
eight months. Most persons in Liberia 
cut the bunches before the fruit has ripen- 
-ed; but, it is much better when it is al- 
lowed to ripen before being separated from 
the stalk. It is usually prepared for the 
table by being boiled, baked, or fried; and 
it is perhaps the most luscious and whole- 
some vegetable of tropical climates, and 
one of the most valuable fi'uits in the veg- 
-etable kin:gdom. It may be produced at 
any time in the year; and, with a little ju- 
dicious management, every family may 
have this ^excellent and nutritious article 
everyday in the year. 

The Banana is so much like the plan- 
tain, in 'every respect, except in the taste, 
and a -slight difi[^erence in the appearance 
of the fruit, that the description of one 
will answer for both. Indeed, it is diffi- 
cult to distinguish one from the other, 
when they are growing. The fruit of the 
banana is only about half the length of the 
plantain; and not so much curved. It is 
also much softei* when ripe, and is more 
frequently eaten uncooked ; although it 
may be prepared in the same manner as 
the plantain. The taste of the plantain 
very much resembles the taste of apples 
cooked in the same way; while that of the 
iDanana is sm^eneris — unlike any fruit of 



the United States. The plantain and ba- 
nana trees or shrubs are among the most 
beautiful vegetable growths of tropical cli- 
mates. 

Okra is the fruit of a small tree, ten or 
twelve feet high. It is a soft, pulpy, and 
very mucilagenous fruit; which, v/hen 
boiled, forms a thick, semi-fluid, pleasant 
and nutritious article of fond — an excel- 
lent adjuvant to rice. It may be raised 
easily and abundantly in Liberia. 

The Papaio is a tall, slender, herbaceous 
tree, of very rapid growth, sometimes at- 
taining the height of thirty feet. The body 
of the tree is usually naked to within 
two or three feet of the top, and is mark- 
ed v/ith the cicatrices of the fallen leaves, 
which wither and fall as the tree continues 
to grow, giving place to others abo-ve 
them. Sometimes, however, there are 
several branches attached to the upper part 
of the body of the tree; each of which 
branches produces a cluster of fruit. The 
leaves ai-e very large, have long footstalks, 
and are divided into numerous lobes. 
The fruit is nearly round, of a pale-green 
color, becoming yellowish as it ripens, 
and is about the size of the head of a 
young infant. One variety of thepapaw, 
however, bears fruit of an elongated shape 
somevv^hat like a pear; but considerably 
larger than the other variety. The frujt 
of the papav/ has a sweetish taste. It is 
very soft; and, when fully ripe, and stew- 
ed, it resembles in both appearance and 
taste the best pumpkins of the United 
States; — when stewed, before it has ripen- 
ed, and made mto pie, it so much resem- 
bles the green-apple pie, in taste as v/ell 
as appearance, that the most fastidious 
epicure might be deceived by it, if he did 
not stop to think that apples do not grow 
in Liberia. 

The CocoaniU is perhaps the most beau- 
tiful tree of tropical climates. It has long, 
curved leaves or branches ; that hang 



IS 



SKETCHES OF LIBERIA. 



Tamarind— African Peach— Sour-sop— Sweet sop, &c. 



<»-racefully from the upper part of the body, 
which rises sometimes to the height of 
thirty feet, or more. The fruit grows in 
clusters near the base of the stalks of the 
leaves. The cocoanut tree is seldom rais- 
ed in Liberia, except as an ornament. A 
few of these stately and beautiful trees 
may be seen in some of the settle- 
ments. 

The Tamarind is a large, spreading tree, 
having very small, deep-green leaves. 
Tlie fruit grows in elongated pods, siihilar 
to the butter-bean. Although the tama- 
rind is indigenous, and thrives as well per- 
haps in Liberia as in any other part of 
the world; yet the people do not give any 
attention to the gathering of the fruit, ex- 
cept for their own use; and, indeed, very 
few seem to care any thing about it. I 
think, however, it might be made a profit- 
•ibie article of exportation. 

The Pomegranate is a dense, spiny 
shrub ten or tv/elve feet high. It pro- 
duces beautiful brilliant large red flowers ; 
and the fruit is about the size of a large 
apple, and covered with a thick coriaceous 
rind. It is filled with a multitude of 
.small seeds; and the pulp is slightly acid 
and astringent. This fruit is seldom cul- 
tivated in Liberia; although I presume it 
will thrive as well as in most other parts 
of the world. 

Tne .African Cherry (so called in Libe- 
ria) is a very pecuhar fruit. It is about 
the size of the ordinary morello cherry of 
the United States ; but, in taste, it more 
resembles the cranberry. The tree is usu- 
ally about fifteen feet high. The great 
peculiarity in the growth of thi.g fruit, 
consists in the manner in which the short 
.stems are attached to the tree — not to the 
twigs of the branches, but to the body and 
larger limbs of the tree; the stems of the 
fruit being about one-third of an inch 
long. This fruit makes very fine tarts — 
i-qua! to the cranberry. 



The Jifrican Peach, of which there are 
several va:rieties, is a large, round, acid 
fruit— one variety being about twice the 
size of the largest peaches in the United 
States. These trees, some of which are 
very large, grow abundantly in the for- 
ests of Liberia. The fruit is used only 
for making preserves; which, when pro- 
perly made, are surpassed only by the 
guava. 

The Sour-sop is a large, pulpy, acidu- 
lous fruit, which grows on a tree about 
the size of an ordinary apple-tree. The 
fruit is nearly pear-shaped, and is about 
as large as an ordinary cantelope. It is 
covered with a thick, knotty rind. When 
perfectly ripe, it is a very pleasant fruit ; 
especially when a little sugar is sprinkled 
over the pulp. It is also very good when 
fried in slices; in which state it some- 
what resembles in taste fried sour ap- 
ples. 

The Stceet-sop is a fruit somewhat simi- 
lar to the sour-sop, but not so acidulous, 
nor so pleasant to the taste. It is seldom 
used. 

The Cacao, from which chocolate is pro- 
duced, though not yet extensively culti- 
vated, thrives well in Liberia, and doubt- 
less might be made a very profitable arti- 
cle of cultivation. 

The Rose-apple is a smaH round fruit, 
which takes its name from its delightful 
fragrance. It is not very palatable, how- 
ever, and is seldom eaten. 

The Granadilla is a large fruit that 
grows on a vine. It is about as large as 
a moderate-sized cantelope. Nc part of 
the fruit is eaten, except the seeds and the 
mucilagenous substance by which they 
are surrounded. These are loosely con- 
fined in the centre of the fruit. The taste 
of this mucilage resembles the American 
strawberry more than any other fruit with 
which I am acquainted. 

The Sorrel is a large shrub, having 
deep-red blossoms; which are often used 



SKETCHES OF LIBERIA. 



19 



Productions continued— Exportable articles— Coffee. 



for making tarts. It grows freely in Li- 
beria, and it is a very handsome orna- 
ment to a yard or garden. 

T.he Chiota is the fruit of a vine. It is 
about as large as an ordinaiy pear. When 
properly prepared, by stewing, it affords 
a wholesome, palatable, and nutritious ar- 
ticle of food; and it may be easily raised 
in Liberia. 

The celebrated bread-fruit, of the island 
of Tahiti, which was introduced into the 
British West-India Islands, by order of 
the government, will grow well in Liberia. 
But, as there are so many other articles 



of a somewhat similar kind that are pre- 
ferable to it, it is seldom used. 

I have seen several other indigenous 
fruits in Liberia; some of which are very 
palatable ; some very fragrant, but not 
very acceptable to the palate ; and others 
not possessing any good qualities to re- 
commend them. And there are many 
other kinds of fruits, peculiar to tropical 
climates, which, no doubt, would thrive 
well in Liberia ; but which have not yet 
been introduced. I have alluded to those 
only that I have seen growing there, and 
of which I have eaten. 



CHAPTER IV. 
PRODucriON s — continued. 



Exportable Articles. — In addition 
to the vegetable productions of Liberia, 
to which I have alluded, there are some 
others that are worthy of particular no- 
tice; especially as they are the principal 
exportable articles, some of which may be 
rendered very profitable articles of com- 
merce. These are, Coffee, Ginger, Pepper, 
Sugar, Ground-nuts, Indigo, Cotton, and 
Jlrroic-root. 

In reference to Coffee, I am quite satis- 
fied that the soil and climate of Liberia 
are as well adapted to the cultivation of 
this article, as the soil and climate of any 
other part of the world. I believe that as 
good coiFee can be raised in Liberia as in 
any other coffee-growing country ; and I 
have no doubt that, by proper attention, it 
may be raised as plentifully as in any 
other part of the world. These opinions 
are not hastily formed, but are founded on 
personal observations in some of the 
West-India Islands, as well as in Liberia, 
and on frequent convesrations with persons 
who have visited various other parts of 
the world in which coffee is cultivated. 
I have frequently seen isolated trees grow- 
ing /m diflerent parts of Liberia, which 



have yielded from ten to twenty pounds 
of clean dry coffee at one picking ; and, 
however incredible it may appear, it is a 
fact, that one tree in Monrovia yielded 
four and a half bushels of coffee, in the 
hull, at one time; which, on being shelled 
and dried, weighed thirty-one pounds. This 
is the largest quantity of which 1 ever 
heard, as having been gathered from one 
tree; and it was the largest coffee tree I 
ever saw, being upwards of twenty 
feet high, and of proportionate dimen- 
sions. 

I have given particular attention to ob- 
servations and investigations, respecting 
the cultivation of coffee in Liberia ; and 
I think I may safely set down the average 
quantity that may be raised, by proper 
cultivation, at four pounds to each tree — 
that is, each tree of six years old and up- 
wards. The coffee tree will begin to bear 
in three years from the time at which the 
seeds are planted. At the end of the 
fourth year, the average quantity may be 
] set down at one pound to each tree; at the 
end of the fifth year, two and a half 
pounds; and, at the end of the sixth year, 
four pounds. About three hundred trees 



20 



SKETCHirS OF LrBKRIA. 



Estimates of the quantity and value of Coffee. 



can be planted in one acre of ground, al- 
lowing the trees to be twelve feet apart. 
Therefore, in four years from the time the 
seeds are planted in the nursery, 300 
pounds of coffee may be gathered, which, 
at ten cents a pound', (a very moderate 
rate for Liberia coffee, which has fre- 
quently been sold for twenty cents a pound 
in this country,) would be worth $30. At 
the end of the fifth year, 750 pounds may 
be gathered — worth $75; and at the end of 
the sixth year, 1,200 pounds-^ worth 
$120. So that, in six years from the 
time of the planting of the seeds, agreeably 
to this calculation, 2,250 poun ds of coffee 
may be produced on one acre of ground — 
worth $225. And, accordingly, ten acres, 
properly cultivated, will yield during the 
first six years, an income of $2,250 ; and 
at least $1,200 during each succeeding 
year. 

This calculation I regard as pretty near- 
ly correct; but even admitting that I have 
set down the quantities and the value at 
one-fourth more than they should be, it 
will still appear, that the cultivation of 
coffee may be rendered a source of wealth 
in Liberia, even supposing that nothing 
else could be raised for exportation, which 
is by no means the case. I am quite sat- 
isfied that at least $100 a year maybe re- 
alized, by proper management, from the 
produce of one acre of ground cultivated 
in coffee, after the sixth year from the 
time of planting of the grains in the nur- 
sery. And, as it does not require much 
labor, one person may easily cultivate 
three acres, with a little hired assistance 
in clearing the land, and may devote one- 
half of his time, or more, to the cultivation 
of other articles, for the use of himself and 
family, and for sale; and he need not work 
more than five or six hours a day. So 
that, by industry, prudence, and econo- 
my, any man may realize at least $300 a 



year for his labor, over and above the 
necessary expenditures of himself and 
family; the other articles which he may 
raise being quite sufficient for the com- 
fortable support of his household. I am 
aware that th e truthfulness of this state- 
ment has seldom been exhibited in the ag- 
ricultural operations of the citizens of Li- 
beria : but this fact does not necessarily 
confute the truth of the statement, nor 
! does it sufficiently exhi'bit the impractiea- 
! biUty of its being fully and easily carried 
out. And I might add, that it does not 
require the exercise of profound wisdom, 
even in a cursory observer, to discover 
the real cauffie why the feasibility of the 
result of the foregoing calculation is not 
more frequently exhibited. 

Coffee is indigenous to Liberia. It may 
frequently be seen wild" in the woods. It 
is, however, much improved by cultiva- 
tion. The most approved method of 
raising it, is^ to plant the grains in a nur- 
sery, and to transplant when the tree has 
attained the height of a foot and a half. 
Some trees arrive at their full growth in 
five or six years ; while others continue 
to grow more than double that length of 
time. The grains grow in pairs, covered 
with a hull, from which they can be eetsi- 
ly separated when dry. The coffee 
blossom is a beautiful and highly fragrant 
little white flower, and the berry, when 
fully ripe, is of a pale red color. The av- 
erage height of full grown trees is about 
eight feet. They continue to bear from 
ten to twenty years. I have seen some 
fine flourishing trees, which were up- 
wards of twenty years old. As the coffee 
tree is easily cultivated, and as the fruit 
is easily cured, the cultivation of this pro- 
fitable and useful article should occupy a 
portion of the time of every family in 
Liberia. 
Next to coffee, perhaps Gitiger may be 



B KETCHES OF LIBERIA. 



21 



.Ginger— Pepper— Sugar-cane. 



-made the most profitable article of culture, 
for exportation. The superio r quality of 
this article, and the peculiar adaptation of 
almost every kind of soil in Liberia to 
its abundant growth, justifies the opinion 
that it may be rendered a profitable article 
of commerce. It will certainly grow as 
well in Liberia as in any other part of the 
world; and, in quality, it is scarcely infe- 
rior to the best that is produced in any 
other countiy. I have no certain data 
from which I can determine the average 
quantity of ginger that may be raised on 
a given quantity of land ; but^ from what 
I have seen, I am quite satisfied that it 
may be raised in great abundance, with 
very little labor. The average increase is 
at least twenty-fold, when properly culti- 
vated. From six to eight montlis is the 
time usually required for its growth and 
maturation. 

Bird Pepper, which is known in the 
United States as " African Cayenne Pep- 
per,'* is an indigenous article, that may 
be found almost every where throughout 
Liberia. I have frequently seen great 
quantities of it growing wild in the woods. 
And if a little attention were given to the 
cultivation of it, thousands of pounds 
might be annually exported. It grows on 
bushes about four feet high. The pods 
are generally about half an inch long, and 
one third of an inch in circumference. 
One species, however, is four or five times 
this size. The smaller kind is generally 
preferred. In quality, it is perhaps not 
equalled by that raised in any other coun- 
try. The cultivation of it requires scarce- 
ly any attention; and the only preparation 
of it for the market, consists in picking 
the pods and spreading them out to dry. 
The shrub grows very rapidly, and the 
fi'uit arrives at maturity in six or eight 
months from the time of planting. It 
yields more abundantly about the begin- 
ning of the year; but as the fruit contin- 



ues to be reproduced throughout the year, 
it may be collected at any time. The na- 
tives use it very freely. It is not un- 
common to see them with a bunch of 
pepper in one hand and a roasted cassada 
in the other, taking, with each bite of the 
latter, one of the pods of the former, one 
of which pods would serve to pepper a 
full meal for a person not so accustomed 
to its use. Perhaps the reader of this may 
wonder why pepper is not more freely 
gathered and exported, as it grows so 
abundantly in tiie wild state, and as it 
may be so very easily cultivated. To 
this I can only respond, echo answers, 
why ? 

Sugar-cane will, perhaps, thrive as well 
in Liberia, as in any other country. I 
have seen stalks more than fifteen feet 
high, and two or three inches in diameter. 
The average size of the stalks is consider- 
ably larger than those raised in the island 
of Barbadoes, and the juice is equally 
sW'Cet, and proportionably more abundant. 
This I have tested, by personal observa- 
tions. Sugar, however, probably will not 
soon become a profitable article of ex- 
portation, in consequence of the inability 
of the Liberians to compete with the 
West-India planters. Liberia, however, 
may be, and ought to be, independent of 
all the rest of the world for this luxury. 
Every farmer ought to raise, not only 
enough of this article for the use of his 
own family, but some to dispose of to 
his mercantile, mechanical, and profes- 
sional neighbors. And, even if he cannot 
conveniently manufacture the sugar, in 
any considerable quantity, he can cer- 
tainly express enough of the juice in a 
few hours, with his own hands, in a mill 
of his own construction, to make several 
gallons of sijrup, (not molasses, but a 
much better article,) which answers very 
well for every practical or necessary pur- 
pose.. 



22 



SKETCHES OF LIBERIA. 



Ground-nuts — Cotton — Arrow-root. 



Ground-nuts, or pea-nuts, may be rais- 
ed in great abundance, in Liberia. And, 
as these nuts generally find a ready mar- 
ket in the United States, and in Europe, 
they certainly will richly repay the Libe- 
rian farmer for the little trouble and labor 
which their cultivation requires. I do not 
know what quantity may be raised on a 
given portion of land, but I do know that 
they yield very abundantly. 

Although the cultivation of Indigo has 
not met with much attention in Liberia — 
comparatively few persons having given 
any attention at all to it — yet, as the in- 
digo plant grows so luxuriantly, and may 
be raised so easily, the manufacture of 
indigo is certainly worthy of particular 
notice. The plant grows so abundantly 
in Liberia, that it constitutes one of the 
most troublesome weeds in the gardens, 
and even in the streets of the settlements. 
And, with a little skill and industry in 
preparing the indigo, it may be rendered 
one of the most profitable crops that can 
be produced in tropical cUmates. The 
plant arrives at maturity in three or four 
months from the time of planting the 
seed ; and as it springs up again, in a few 
weeks after having been cut, one crop 
will yield five or six cuttings in the course 
of the year. Several varieties of the in- 
digo plant may be found growing wild in 
Liberia, all of which yield very fine indigo, 
some of which is perhaps equal to that pro- 
duced in any other part of the world. The 
preparation of indig^^ requires a little more 
patience and industry than the Liberians 
generally are in the habit of bestowing on 
any one article of agriculture ; which is 
the principal cause why it has not been 
more extensively manufactured. 

Cotton has not yet been cultivated to a 
sufficient extent to enable me to determine 
from observation whether it may be made 
a very profitable article of agriculture. 
Several old cotton planters, who had 



grown grey in raising cotton in Georgia, 
Mississippi, and other Southern States, 
before they went to Liberia, have repeat- 
edly told me, that the cotton-tree or shrub 
will grow as well, and yield as abundant- 
ly in Liberia as in any part of the United 
States. The natives in the interior manu- 
facture cotton goods pretty extensively 
from the indigenous growth, of which 
there are several varieties. The best 
grows on trees or shrubs eight or ten feet 
high — similar to those raised in the United 
States, but larger in the average size. 
And, as the trees are not injured by frosts, 
of course they continue to bear for several 
years. T doubt not that Liberia might 
become one of the most important cotton- 
growing countries in the world. 

*Mrrow-root probably thrives as well in 
Liberia as in any other part of the world. 
This is a tender plant, which usually 
grows to the height of two or three feet. 
The stems, of which several rise from the 
same root, are round, branched, jointed, 
and leafy. The leaves resemble the com- 
mon sword-grass. They are alternate ; 
and are from three to six inches in length. 
The root, which is the only part used, is 
beautifully cylindrical, straight, and taper- 
ing, (hence the name of the plant,) fleshy, 
scaly, and furnished with numerous long, 
white fibres; and is usually from three to 
eight inches in length. This plant is one 
of the most luxuriant growths in Liberia. 
It is easily propagated, and it arrives at 
maturity in about five months. In pre- 
paring it for use, the roots are washed, 
and then beat into a pulp, which is thrown 
into a tub of water, and agitated, so as to 
separate the fibres from the amylaceous 
part; the latter of which remains suspend- 
ed in the water, while the former is re- 
moved. The milky fluid, thus formed, is 
strained, and allowed to stand several 
hours, until the fecula, or starch, shal! 
have settled at the bottom of the vessel. It 



SKETCHES OP LIBERIA, 



23 



Arrow-root — a substitute for flour. 



is then washed with a fresh portion of 
water, strained again, and allowed to sub- 
side again; this process eometimes being 
performed three or four times; after which, 
it is spread out, and dried in tiie sun. 
About eight pounds of the pure pov/der 
or flour may be produced from a bushel of 
the roots. 

As arrow-root may be produced so 
abundantly in Liberia ; and as it is one of 
the most important exportable articles, as 
well as one of the most valuable articles of 
food, it deserves particuW notice. The 
■cultivation of the plant requires so little 
labor or attention, and the process of man- 
ufacturing the fecula from the roots is so 
very simple and so easily performed, that 
I am quit-e ceartain this article may be ren- 
dered a source of wealth by eixportation. 
From having frequently seen it growing, 
and having seen the quantity which a very 
small piece of ground pro<Juced, I think 
the average quantity that may be raised 
on almost every kind of soil in Liberia, 
may be safely and truly set down at one 
hundred bushels to the acre; that is, eight 
hundred pounds of pure nfiianufactured 
ai-row-root, or fecula. An old gentleman 
at Monrovia, who has raised a consider- 
able quantity of it, stated to me, that, from 
the quantity he has made from a certain 
portion of land, he was quite satisfied that 
one acre, properly cultivated, will yield 
two thousand pounds. And a farmer at 
Caldwell assured me thai he made one 
hundred and thirty pounds from the pro- 
duce of one-sixteenth of an acre of ground. 
But, as it will be perceived, I have placed 
the average quantity at less than one-half 
of the proportionate quantity that has actu- 
ally been raised ; and this, I think, is not 
beyond a fair estimate. Assuming there- 
fore, that one-half an acre will produce 
four hundred pounds, (a quantity which 
almost any family may easily raise and 
jsaanufacture,) and allowing the average 



net price to be only fifteen cents a pound ; 
it will appear that |60 may be realized from 
this small quantity of land ; with compara- 
tively little labor. 

During the last few years, arrow-root 
has been used pretty extensively in Liberia, 
as a substitute for wheat-flour ; and, as I 
have frequently eaten it, in vai'ious forms 
of bread, I hesitate not to say, that I be- 
lieve it to be not only a good substitute for 
flour, but much more suitable and whole- 
some for persons residing in tropical cli- 
mates. It makes very fine biscuits, either 
alone or when mixed with a small quantity 
of sweet potatoes- It also makes very 
good pie-crust ; and f have seen light or 
leavened bread, made of arrow-root, whicJi 
so much resembled wheat-flour bread, in 
both appearance and taste, as to deceive 
professed judges. Besides these, I have 
eaten the nicest kind of pound and other 
sweet cakes, made of this article, instead 
of flour, with the ordinary adjuvants. 

The foregoing named articles constitute 
the principal exportable articles of agricul- 
ture, that may be raised in Liberia. And 
I have endeavored to give faithful and 
truthful statements, in reference to each of 
them. And, while I regret that greater at- 
tention has not yet been given to the culti- 
vation of these articles, I cherish the hope 
that the period will arrive at which all of 
them will be cultivated extensively ; if not 
by the present inhabitants, by others who 
may emigrate thither, having more energy, 
industry, and perseverance. I candidly 
believe, that a man may acquire more 
wealth in Liberia by judicious manage- 
ment in the cultivation of the soil, than he 
could acquire in any part of the United 
States with double the quantity of land, 
double the amount of labor, and in double 
the length of time ; even allowing for all 
the disadvantages under which he may 
have to labor in Liberia, and all the tacili- 
ties which he might have in the Unitevl 



u 



SKETCHES OF LIBERIA 



n 



Productions continued— Palm — Camwood, &c. 



Slates. I am quite certain, that, by pur- 
suing a regular, systematic, and persever- 
ing course of agi-icultural industry and 
^•ugality, the citizens of Liberia may, with 
MO other means than those v/hich every 
i!;dividual can readily procure, produce 
):ot only enough of those articles that are 
peculiar to tropical cliinates, for their own 



use, but a large surplus for exportation. 
And, any man in Liberia , who enjoys a 
tolerable degree of health, and who does 
iwt live comfortably and independently, 
may,, without any violation of the princi- 
ples of truth or justice, charge- the defi- 
ciency to his own account. 



CHAPTER y. 

PRODUCTION s — continued. 



OvE of the most important and valuable 
it:digenousarticlesofthe vegetable kingdom 
hi Intertropical Africa, is the Palm; which is 
or.eofthe most remarkable and useful trees 
in the world. There are two or three varieties 
of the palm in Liberia ; one of which, by its 
towering height and graceful appearance, 
attracts particular attention. The tree that 
yields the nuts from which oil is extracted, 
seldom grows to the height of more than 
twenty-five feet. It resembles the cocoanut 
tree, having, like that, long leaves or 
branches, attached to the upper part of the 
body of the tree, and which hang in grace- 
ful curves. The fruit grows in clusters 
cr bunches, near the base of the stalks of 
the leaves. The nut is oval, about an inch 
long ; and, when ripe, is of a deep red 
color. The oil is extracted from the pulp 
of the nut, which yields very abundantly. 
It is manufactured by the natives ; and sev- 
eral iiundred thousand gallons are annually 
exported from Liberia. Palm trees may 



taste ; — ^and from the fibres of the leaves 
the natives get materials for making baskets ^ 
hats, &c. Palm oil is e-xtensively used by 
the Liberians as a substitute for sperm oil 
and candles ; and also in culinary opera- 
tions, as a substitute for lard and butter. 
And, for all needful pui'poses, to which 
those articles are applied, it answers very 
well. The average price of palm oil in 
Liberia is about thirty-three cents a gallon. 

Another valuable tree, which is indi- 
genous and peculiar to intertrop-ical Africa, 
is the Camitood ; which grows abundantly 
in the forests, about a hundred milas from 
the coast. This is one of the most valu- 
able dye-woods in the world ; and hun- 
dreds of tons are annually exported from 
Liberia. 

The Palnia-chruti, the seeds of which 
yield Castor oily is also indigenous to Libe- 
ria ; and I have no doubt that the regular 
cultivation of this valuable shrub would 
richly repay the laborer for the little 



h3 seen in every part of Liberia, adorning |j trouble that it would require 



the hills and valleys ; and furnishing not 
ovAy great quantities of oil for exportation, 



The tree which yields the medicinal bal- 
sam, called CopawUf may also be seen oc- 



cs well as for domestic uses, but yielding a | casionally growing wild in the forests of 



\ariety of other useful substances ; — a pe 
culiar beverage called "palm v/ine," pro- 
cured by tapping the tree, and which in 
taste very much resembles wine-whey ; 
niso a substance that grows at the top of 
ti;e tree, called "palm-cabbage;"' and 
which, when boiled, has an agreeable 



Liberia ; and I doubt not that the juice 
might be collected in sufficient quantities 
to become a valuable article of exportation. 

Several varieties of the ^bacia (Gum 
A.rabic tree) grow in Liberia ; and some 
of the gum is of superior quality. 

I have seen some specimens of Olibanum^. 



SKETCHES OF LIBERIA. 



25 



Animals. Elephants— Leopards — Hippopotami— Orocodilea— Deer— Monkeys, &c. 



(Frankincense,) which, as the natives in- 
formed me, were collected from large trees 
that grow abundantly in the forest. 

I have frequently seen the Caoutchouc, or 
gum-elastic tree, growing in Liberia ; some 
of tt'iiich are forty feet, or more, in height. 

The forests of Libei'ia also furnish many 
different kinds of valuable timber, well 
suited for ship or boat building, cabinet 
work, and all the various operations in car- 
pentry ; the principal of which are Wist- 
more, Brimstone, Rose-wood, Mulberry, 
Bastard Mahogany, Saffron, Mangrove, 
African Oak, Hickory, Poplar, Persim- 
mon and Sassa-wood. Some of these 
make very beautiful cabinetwork. 

A considerable variety of medicinal 
plants, besides those to which I have al- 
luded, may be found in Liberia ; among 
wliich is the Croton Tiglium, a small tree 
or shrub, with spreading branches, yield- 
ing a capsular fruit, from the seeds of 
v/hich croton oil is extracted. 

An'imals. — The principal tvild animals 
which infest the forests or rivers of Libe- 
ria, are the Elephant, Leopard, Hippopot- 
amus, Crocodile, Porcupine, Wild Hog, 
Boa Constrictor, several varieties of the 
Deer, and several of the Ape. 

Elephants are quite numerous about a 
hundred miles back in the interior ; and 
the natives make a regular business of 
hunting and killing them, .for the ivory of 
which their tusks are composed. These 
animals were formerly frequently seen in 
the vicinity of some of the settlements ; 
i)ut they are now seldom seen within fifty 
miles of the sea-coast. 

Leopards are occasionally seen prowling 
about the outskirts of some of the settle- 
ments ; and they sometimes carry away 
small domesticated animals at night. But 
they are much less numerous and trouble- 
some, than formerly. They never attack a 
person, except after having been wounded. 

Hippopotami are occasionally seen on the 



banks of the rivers, some of them of im- 
mense size — weighing a thousand pounds, 
or more. They are Sometimes killed by 
the natives. They are harmless animals ; 
and they always endeavor to escape, when 
interrupted, by plunging into the water. 

Crocodiles, (erroneously called Alliga- 
tors) are frequently seen basking in thfe 
sunshine on the banks of the rivers, or on 
the little rocky islands. Tiiey always 
make their escape into the water, when 
approached by a person on shore, or in a 
boat or canoe. 

Boa Constrictors are sometimes killed in 
the forests in Liberia. The largest lever 
saw was fifteen feet long, and fifteen inches 
in circumference. Much larger ones have 
been killed. I never heard of their attack- 
ing an individual. Serpents, however, are 
much less numerous in Liberia than is 
generally supposed ; and poisonous snakes 
are perhaps less common than in many 
parts of the United States. 

Deer are very numerous, and they af- 
ford excellent vension. 

Monkeys are found in great numbers in 
the forests. 1 have seen a dozen, or more, 
at one time, jumping from tree to tree, 
with great dexterity. Several species of 
the ape tribe are occasionally caught by 
the natives ; among which is the Chimpan' 
zee, so remarkable for its near approxima- 
tion in appearance to the human race. — 
Some of these " wild men of the woods" 
have been seen as large as an ordinary 
sized man. The largest that I ever saw 
was about the size of a child two or three 
years old. The old ones are never 
caught, and are seldom killed. They are 
very powerful, as well as very active. 

Besides these, the Guana, the Ichneumon, 
the Sloth, the beautiful and ever-changing 
Chamelion, many varieties of Lizards, and 
several species of^nts,may frequently be 
seen. 

One variety or species of ants is very re* 



SKETCHES OF LIBERIA 



Ants — Drivers— Domesticated Animals. 



raarkable, in consequence of the immense 
conical mounds of earth which they rear, 
and in which they make their nests. — 
These mounds are sometimes ten or twelve 
feet high, and eight or ten feet in diameter 
at the base. These ants are about the 
size of the large black ant in the United 
States. The queens however, is much 
larger — some of them two inches in length 
and nearly two inches in circumference. — 
In the interior of the mound, about half- 
way from the bottom, is a large vaulted 
chamber, the floor of which is very hard 
and smooth. In the centre of the floor is 
the nest, in the inmost recess of which, 
lives the queen in luxurious ease, accom- 
panied by the king, whose size does not 
vary much from the ordinary ant, but who 
is easily recognized by a striking difference 
in physical conformation. When the 
queen dies, or is captured, all the ants de- 
sert the hill, vvrhich is left to '^ crumble into 
dust again." Many of these deserted 
mounds may be seen in almost every part 
of Liberia. 

Another species of ants (familiarly 
known by the name of Drivers) is still 
more remarkable. They are about the 
size of the black ant of America — that is, 
about one-fourth to one-half of an inch in 
length. They may frequently be seen 
marching along, in the most systematic or- 
der and regularity of movement. They , 
move in a solid compact column of great I 
length ; and they appear to be under the j 
direction of able leaders and rigid disci- i 
plinarians. No common obstacle turns j 
them out of their course ; and whoever is 
so unfortunate as to come in their line of 
march will have to pay for his temerity ; ' 
and will be reminded to be more careful in 
future. Hundreds seize fiercely on the in- 
truding foot, and the unwary object of 
their vengeance is compelled to retreat 
from the scene of attack. These tiny 



warriors are very troublesome ; but 
they are exceedingly useful in expelling 
noxious vermin from every place into 
which they may enter in the course of their 
perambulations. Whenever a battalion of 
drivers enters a dwelling house, the inmates 
are obliged, for the time, to yield undis- 
puted possession, at least of that part of 
the house which the little warriors may be 
searching. They are not, however, al- 
ways unwelcome visitors ; for they never 
fail to expel rats, mice, and every species 
of vermin — making a clean sweep as they 
go. Whenever they come to a small wa- 
ter-course, the larger and stronger ones 
dexterously form themselves into an arch, 
by clinging to each other ; thus making a 
bridge, over which the smaller ones pass 
dry-shod. Even in their ordinary march 
over level ground, they seem to cling to 
each other in a solid phalanx ; the strong- 
er ones occupying the flanks, and arching 
themselves over the weaker ones, who oc- 
cupy the centre, and who are thus pro- 
tected by the others. 

All kinds of animals, both large and 
small, are afraid of drivers ; nor have they 
any regard to size in the objects of their 
warfare. They are very useful in chasing 
away or killing snakes, lizards, scorpions, 
centipedes, &c., which, were it not for the 
drivers, would be exceedingly troublesome, 
and even dangerous. Whenever they visit 
I a house, tliey search it all over, and expel 
every living, moving thing, that they find ; 
after which, they retire peaceably, and 
yield possession to the former occupants. 
They make their nests beneath the sur- 
face of the ground ; and I presume they 
sally forth from their quarters only in 
search of food ; at which times the line of 
march is sometimes a hundred yards, or 
more, in length. 

The principal domesticated aniinals in Li- 
beria, are Bullocks or Beeves, Cows, 



SKETCHES OP LIBERIA, 



Beeves— Cows— Sheep— Goats— Horses, &c.— Diseases. 



Sheep, Goats, Swine, Geese, Turkeys, 
Ducks, and Chickens. 

Beeves are frequently brought into the 
settlements for sale by the natives, and 
they are sometimes raised by the citizens. 
They may be raised easily in any desira- 
ble quantity. 

Cows are numerous, but they do not 
give much milk. Some of the cows which 
are brought from the interior, one or two 
hundred miles from the coast, are as large 
as ordinary cows in the United States ; 
but they do not give half so much milk. If 
properly attended to, however, I think they 
would afford milk much more plenti- 
fully. 

Sheep and Goats can be very easily raised 
in Liberia — as easily, perhaps, as in any 
other part of the world ; and they both af- 
ford good wholesome animal food. The 
sheep are covered with hair instead of 
wool. The goats furnish very good 
milk. 

Swine do not thrive so well in Liberia 
as in some parts of the United States ; but 
they can be raised in sufficient abundance 
for the wants of the people. 

Geese and Ducks may be raised without 
any more difficulty than in the United 
States ; and within a few years past. 



Turkeys have become much more plentiful 
than they formerly were. 

Perhaps in no othei- part of the world 
can Chickens be raised more easily and 
more plentifully, than in Liberia. With 
very little trouble, every family may al- 
ways have a sufficient supply of chickens. 

Horses are plentiful in the interior, with- 
in three hundred miles of the coast, but 
they do not thrive well in the settlements ; 
perhaps in consequence principally of the 
Want of proper management. They are 
occasionally brought down by the natives, 
and some of them are very beautiful. — 
They are small — seldom more than twelve 
hands high. I am quite satisfied that they 
never can be used to much advantage, as 
draft animals, in the present settlements of 
Liberia. But for all necessary purposes, 
the native oxen can be used as a substitute 
for horses. I have seen some of the small 
bullocks broken to the yoke, and working 
steadily and effectually. The Liberians, 
however, have not yet given much atten- 
tion to the breaking and working of oxen 
— by no means as much as they ought to 
give. 1 trust that the time may not be 
distant, when the plough and the cart will 
be much more extensively used, than at 
present. 



CHAPTER VL 

DISEASES. 



The physical system of every in- 
dividual who removes from a ten^pe- 
rate to a tropical climate must undergo 
some change — must experience some pro- 
cess of acclimation, which may or may 
not be attended with much fever, accord- 
ing to circumstances — to the constitutional 
peculiarities of the individual, the nature 
of the sui'rounding country, the previous 
habits of life, the situation at the time 
with respect to regimen, comforts, &c.; 
and by no means the least, the state of the 



mind with respect to calmness and patience, 
or irritability and disquietude, together 
with other imaginable circumstances ; so 
that the developments of fever are gener- 
ally various, requiring various methods 
of treatment — each method to be adapted 
to the individual case, as circumstances 
may require. Hence, the impossibility of 
furnishing an exact or complete treatise on 
the subject — of setting down any charac- 
teristic marks of the t/^cch'wrtimg- Fever, or of 
adopting any particular mode of treatment. 



28 



SKETOHES OP LIBERIA. 



Character of the acclimating fever. 



Some persons, in passing through the 
physical change, or process of acclima- 
tion, have so little fever that they do 
not i-equire medical treatment at all. And 
1 have no doulu that many persons might 
pass safely through the acclimating pro- 
cess without taking a grain of medicine, 
if they could or would exercise the neces- 
sary precautions in the preservation of 
health — such as proper attention to their 
habits, diet and clothing, to the extent of 
exposure to the heat of the day, as well 
as to the damp and chilling night-air, and 
especially to the avoidance of all sources 
of mental inquietude. 

In some cases the physical system be- 
comes sufficiently adapted to the climate to 
resist the surrounding deleterious influ- 
ences, in two or three months. In other 
cases, a year or more elapses before this 
desirable point is reached. And in some 
cases, the physical system and the climate 
seem to be at variance for several years. 

In the course of my observations in the 
treatment of the acclimating fever, I fre- 
quently noticed that persons who had pre- 
viously suffered from local inflammatory 
affections were extremely liable to have a 
recurrence of some or all of the symptoms 
of the old disorder, in consequence of the 
previously inflamed organ or tissue being 
the " weak point" in the system. And 
in some cases, persons who might have 
enjoyed tolerable health in the United 
States die very soon after their arrival in 
Liberia, in consequence of the physical 
system not being sufficiently vigorous to 
undergo the necessary change, in order to 
become adapted to the climate. Hence I 
the impropriety of persons emigrating to 
Liberia whose constitutions have become 
much impaired by previous disease, by 
intemperance, or otherwise. And hence 
fhe necessity of Missionary Societies be- 
ing careful in regard to the physical as 
vvHl as to the moral qualifications of those 



: persons who oflTer themselves as misaiona- 
j ries to Africa. 

! The majority of persons from the United 
I States who take up their residence in Li- 
j beria have some development of fever, in 
! some form or other, within the first two 
I months after their arrival. The most com- 
I mon form, perhaps, is that which medical 
j writers generally call " Bilious Remittent 
Fever," which is usually simple in its 
character, and which generally yields 
I readily, in a few days, to simple, mild, 
j appropriate treatment. The first attack, 
I however, is generally followed, within a 
few days or weeks, by a second similar, 
j or nearly similar, attack, or, which is more 
j common, by one or other of the varieties 
of the intermittent form of fever ; and to 
I this latter kind of fever the individual is 
j more or less subject until his system shall 
I have become sufficiently adapted to the 
i climate and to the local influences of the 
1 country to resist their peculiar efljects. Not 
I unfrequently the first attack, as well as the 
subsequent ones, assumes the intermittent 
form ; in most cases, however, attended 
with considerable biliary derangement. — 
The fever seldom assumes a strictly con- 
tinued form, is seldom inflammatory, and 
it seldom terminates in permanent conges- 
tion of any internal oi'gan. The conges- 
tive and inflammatory forms are perhaps 
never exhibited, except in cases in which 
there is some striking constitutional pecu- 
liarity. Bilious vomiting frequently oc- 
curs, in both the remittent and intermit- 
tent forms ; and sometimes gastric irrita- 
bility prevails to a considerable extent, and 
j renders the proper management of the 
; case rather difficult. In all cases, the 
tongue is considerably furred, and in many 
cases, headache, more or less violent, con- 
tinues during ihe continuance of the fever. 
Temporary delirium is sometimes present, 
during high febrile excitement ; but it 
usually subsides with the remi.<3sion or in- 
termission of the fever. 



SKETCHES OF LIBERIA. 



29 



Tresltment of the acclimating fever. 



In reference to the most successful mode 
of treatment, it is impossible to furnish any 
statement that will be sufficiently intelli- 
gible and comprehensive to justify the ap- 
plication of remedial medicinal means, 
without the judicious exercise of an en- 
lightened judgment. I may, however, 
point out a few land-marks^ and a few 
rocks and shoals, by which the untutored 
medical mariner may be able to steer his 
course with more safety than if he were 
entirely destitute of such information. — 
And first, I would remark that there are 
two points of essential importance, which 
cannot be too strongly impressed on the 
consideration of all persons who expect 
to reside in Liberia t The first is, the great 
advantage of mental as well as physical 
quietude, and patient resignation ; which 
necessarily imply the avoidance, as much 
as possible, of both mental and physical 
irritability, of despondency or gloomy 
forebodings, and of distrust in Divine 
Providence. Whoever goes to Africa, 
ought to go with the expectation of living; 
and if he should get sick, he ought to try to 
get well again — to avoid all excitement, and 
to endeavor to be cheerful and contented. 
The greatest difficulty with which I gene- 
rally had to contend) in the treatment of 
the acclimating fever, was to prevent mental 
depression or despondency in my patients. 
And I have invariably found, in Cases in 
which patients obstinately and pertina- 
ciously yielded to despondency, and aban- 
doned all hope of getting well^ that sooner 
or later their expectations were realized, 
and death closed the scene. The other 
point to which I would direct particular 
attention is, the danger of using medicinal 
agents too freely— of relying too much on 
the curative virtues of medicines, and not 
giving due attention to auxiliary means ; 
which indeed are often of much more im- 
portancs than all the pills and powders of 
the doctor or the druggist. I am quite 



j satisfied that the lives of many persons 
have been sacrificed in Liberia by the 
too free or injudicious use of medicines-, 
especially calomel and drastic cathartics. 
In reference to the use of calomel, I may 
state, that although I generally found the 
necessity for its use in the majority of 
cases of the acclimating fever which came 
under my treatment, yet I used it much 
more cautiously and sparingly than it is 
generally used by medical practitioners in 
the United States. I never gave more 
than eight grains at a time, and seldom 
gave more than fifteen grains during one 
attack of sickness* "Whenever I found 
the necessity for its administration, in any 
casBj I sometimes gave it in about two 
grain doses, at intervals of about two 
hours, usually in combination with some 
diaphoretic or sweating medicine, especial ■» 

I ly James' pov/der. After three or four of 

! these doses had been taken, 1 usually di- 

f 

j rected a moderate dose of castor oil to be 

taken, withm ten or twelve hours after the 

first dose. In the beginning of an attack 

of fever, especially in those cases in which 

the tongue was much coated, and the pa-^ 

tient complained of nausea, without free 

vomiting, 1 frequently gave a dose of cal- 

i omel and ipecacuanha, in the proportion 
of six or eight grains of the former to 

1 about twenty of the latter. This dose 
usually produced sufficient action on the 
bowelsj as well as vomiting. If it failed 
to move the bowels, 1 always directed 
some mild laxative afterwards — generally 
castor oil or rhubarb. In some cases I 
had no occaision to give any other medi- 
cine, during the attack, than the dose of 
calomel and ipecac ; except generally, in 
the intermittent form, quinine to break up 
the periodicity of the attack. I never gave 
calomel with the intention of producing 
salivation ; — this result I always endeavor- 
ed to guard against ; and, of the hundreds 
of cases which I treated, very few ever 



so 



SKETCHES OF LIBERIA 



Medicines used in treating the acclimating fever. 



complained of the slightest soreness of the Ij five or six grains of James' powder, at 
mouth. In the few cases, in which sali- j; night ; and generally the patient was de- 



vation resulted from the administration of 
calomel, in consequence of a strong con- 



cidedly better on the following morning ;. 
after having enjoyed refreshing sleep du- 



stitutional tendency in the patients, I al- j| ring the night. A teaspoonful of paregoric, 
ways observed that convalescence was {I under similar circumstances, sometimes 



more tedious — the patient requiring a long- 
er time to regain his health and strength. 



also produces very beneficial effects. But 
the judicious administration of opiate med- 



My favorite diaphoretics were, James' j icines, requires the exercise of more skill 



powder and sweet spirits of nitre ; both of 
which I used frequently and freely. I 
generally found the latter of these' two 



and judgment, than most persons possess, 
who have not given particular attention to 
the study of the animal economy, and the 



medicines very beneficial in producing ! I effects of medicinal agents 



perspiration, when given during the febrile 
excitement, in the dose of about a teaspoon- 
ful, at intervals of an hour or two. I 
sometimes found it necessary to be more 
(;autious in the administration of the for- 
mer, especially in cases in which much 
tendency to gastric irritability existed. I 
seldom used nitrate of potash (a favorite 
diaphoretic with some physicians in this 
country,) in consequence of the tendency, 
in many cases, to irritability of the sto- 
mach. 

In reference to the use of opiates, I may 
.slate, that, although I frequently found 
them highly beneficial, under circumstan- 
ces which peculiarly indicated the neces- 
sity of their being administered ; yet, I 
always endeavored to avoid the use of 
them as much as possible, in consequence 
especially of their general astringent and 
constipating effects. Whenever the case 
seemed to demand the use of any opiate, 
and the bowels were not constipated, es- 
pecially if they were looser than desirable, 
I generally gave free doses— seldom less 
flian fifty drops of laudanum, or one-fourth 
of a grain of morphine. In some cases, in 
which the general system was in a highly 
irritable condition— quick and feeble pulse, 
dry skin, and sometimes violent headache, 
and .sleeplessness, with or without delirium, 
] sometimes gave about one-third of a 
°:rain of morphine, in combination with 



I would strongly discourage the use of 
Epsom salts, as a cathartic : the only way 
in which it ought to be given, (if at all,) is 
in broken doses — not more than a tea- 
spoonful at a time: in some cases of erup- 
tive diseases, it may be beneficially used 
in this way ; but it. should never be given 
in active purgative doses- This remark is 
applicable to all other hydrogogue and 
drastic cathartic medicines. A favorite 
combination with me was three grains of 
calomel, one-sixth of a grain of tartar 
emetic, and six grains of compound ex- 
tract of colocynth, made into two pills ; 
I sometimes added one grain of gamboge; 
but 1 generally found the pills sufficiently 
active without the gamboge, if the medi- 
cines were good. This dose I used fre- 
quently to give, as an anti-bilious cathar- 
tic, and as a preparative for the adminis- 
tration of quinine, during an attack of in-, 
termittent fever. I have several times 
taken this combination myself, and always 
with decided benefit. As a mild, certain, 
and .safe laxative, in cases in which the 
principal object was to produce action of 
the bowels, I never found anything to 
answer so well as castor oil. Rhubarb, 
either alone or in combination with cal- 
cined magnesia, will sometimes answer 
very well. 

1 frequently found great advantage from 
the application of blistering plasters ; es- 



SKETCHES OF LIBERIA. 



u 



Leeches— Quinine — how administered— Stimulants. 



pecially to the pit of the stomach, in cases 
attended with much irritability of that or- 
gan. I generally found that the vomiting 
ceased as soon as the plaster began to pro- 
duce its peculiar effects. I sometimes al- 
f?o applied a blister plaster to the back of 
the neck, in violent headache, v/ith deci- 
ded advantage. In cases attended with 
marked inflammatory action in the stomach 
— great tendei-ness to pressure, irritability, 
and other prominent symptoms, I some- 
times resorted to local depletion, by cup- 
ping ; and I sometimes applied cups to 
the temples, to relieve the head. I, how- 
ever, more frequently resorted to the free 
application of leeches in such cases. These 
fittle animals are very plentiful in Liberia, 
iind they can be easily procured, at any 
time. They are about one-third the size 
of the ordinary foreign leeches, which are 
used in the United States, and they draw 
much less blood. I have had nearly a hun- 
dred of them applied to myself at one 
time. 

la the intermittent form of fever, qui- 
nine is the remedium magnum. I seldom 
failed to break up the attack, in a few days, 
by the judicious use of this medicine ; 
which, perhaps, approaches more nearly 
io a specific than any other medicinal ar- 
ticle. Although I had frequent attacks of 
intermittent fever during my residence in 
Liberia ; yet I never had more than three 
^>aroxysms, during any one attack ; and I 
was generally able to prevent the third 
by the use of this valuable remedy. My 
usual mode of taking or administering it 
was in doses of about two grains, at in- 
tervals of two hours, commencing about 
eight hours before the time of the expected 
chdl or ague ; whenever circumstances 
would admit of its administration in this 
way. Sometimes I gave it at intervals of 
one hour, commencing four or five hours 
before the time of the expected paroxysm. 
1 generally found eight or ten grains to be 



sufficient. In cases in which the chill or 
ague came on early in the forenoon — say 
7 or 8 o'^clock — i generally gave a single 
dose of about five grains, within an hour 
of the time at which the paroxysm was 
expected. In most cases, I believe one 
such dose would prevent an ague, if taken 
within an hour of the expected attack. — • 
But, inconsequence of more or less irreg- 
ularity respecting the time at which a 
paroxysm might be expected, I generally 
found it necessary to commence the use of 
the quinine several hours previous to the 
time at which the preceding paroxysm 
made its appearance. It is best to con- 
tinue the use of quinine two or three days 
after the the chill or ague has been 
stopped, in two grain doses taken several 
times during the day. 

I have but little confidence in the habit- 
ual use of wine, brandy, porter, ale, or any 
thing else of the kind, either as preven- 
tives of fever, or as tonics during conva- 
lescence, after an attack. The climate it- 
self is too exciting and stimulating to the 
systems of new-comers, generally ; and 
consequently I always found it better to 
avoid the use of stimulating beverages, 
except in cases of great physical prostra- 
tion by disease, in which some stimulating 
draught was imperatively demanded. — 
During the first six months of my resi- 
dence in Liberia, I always found the use 
of wine injurious, at any time, in my own 
case. And I am decidedly of opinion, 
that cold water is the best beverage, in 
Liberia as well as in the United States. — 
The moderate use of wine or porter, or even 
brandy, may sometimes be advantageous, 
in those cases in which the system has 
become greatly enfeebled, by frequent at- 
tacks of fever, and by the protracted en- 
ervating influences of the climate ; but in 
the majority of cases, I think the use of 
such beverages ought to be entirely dis- 
pensed with. 



k 



32 



SKETCHES OF LIBERIA. 



Diseases continued— Dysentery— Diarrhea— Rheumatism— Dropsy. 



1 frequently found the use of various 

domestic remedies highly beneficial in the 

treatment of fevers in Liberia, particularly 

herb'teas, and the pepper cataplaam. The 

latter is almost universally used, instead of 

mustard ; in consequence of pepper being 

more convenient, as well as more active in 

its effects. The pepper pods, whether green 

or red, are cut into small pieces, and mixed 

with corn or rice meal, or wheat-fiour, and 

water, and made into a poultice or plaster, 

:n the same manner as mustard plastersare 

usually made. The burning effects of this 

poultice will be experienced in a few min- 

ates . I ha ve frequently found it to be \nBry 



beneficial in relieving nausea or vomiting, 
and also colic pains, when applied over the 
stomach or abdomen . It is also a powerful 
revulsive agent, when ai^plied to the ankles, 
wrists, bottom of the feet, or calves of the 
legs ; and it is peculiarly beneficial in some 
cases, in which the use of such an agent is 
indicated. The infusion of an herb called 
" fever tea," is generally very beneficial, 
as a diaphoretic, when taken warm, and as 
an agreeable beverage when taken cold, 
instead of water. Various other vegetable 
substances, which abound in Liberia, may 
be advantageously used, in making inno- 
cent and useful medicinal infusions. 



CHAPTER VIL 

Disease s^^continued. 



In addition to the ordinary remittent and 
intermittent fevers, to which I have partic- 
ularly alluded, I oecasionally.met with cases 
bearing some resemblance to other kinds 
of fever, that are usually described in 
medical books -, but they were generally 
not sufficiently marked to justify the dis- 
tinctive appellations of nosological arrange- 
ment. I never saw a well-marked case of 
yellow fever in Liberia; although this 
disease is sometimes experienced at Sierf a 
Leone, especially among European resi- 
dents. Acute inflammatory diseases are 
not common in Liberia. I seldom met 
with distinctly marked cases of pleurisy, 
or of any other violent or active inflam- 
matory disease. It is very fortunate that 
such affections are not common ; for they 
are generally almost necessarily fatal it^. 
their termination. 

Dysenteryand diarrhoea are by no means 
so common, as might b« suppossed. I 
seldom met with very obstinate cases of 
either of these diseases. Slight attacks of 
diarrhoea are occasionally brought on by the 
intemperate use of some kinds of fruits ; 
and occasionally, in new-comers, by the 



too free use of some kinds of animal food, 
particularly fresh pork, beef, or fish. I 
met with a few cases of chronic dysentery ; 
and I experienced two or three attacks my- 
self. Rheumatism, both acute and chronic, 
occasionally occurs, never very violent, 
however, in either form. Dropsical affec- 
tions are rather frequent ; especially local 
anasarca, or dropsy of the cellular mem- 
brane beneath the skin — a consequence of 
general debility-, produced by frequent at- 
tacks of" fever, inattention to diet and cloth- 
ing, and undue exposure. It is not uncom- 
mon for the feet and legs of persons to swell 
more or less, during the acclimating pro- 
cess ; especially white persons and bright 
mulattoes. This swelling generally gra.4- 
ually subsides, as the system becomes bet- 
ter adapted to the climate. Ascites, or 
dropsy of the abdomen, sometimes occurs, 
as a consequence of chronic affections of the 
liver or spleen, especially enlargement of 
one or both of these organs, after a long 
residence in the country. Such cases, 
however, are not so coreimon as might be 
supposed. I never met with more than a 
dozen cases, during my residence in Libe- 



SKETCHES OF LIBERIA. 



33 



Cutaneous aflections — Leprosy — Ulcers. 



ria. No course of treatment wliich lever 
pursued, in such cases, seemed to produce 
any decidedly beneficial effects. 

Cutaneous affections are quite common; 
some of which are peculiar to the country 
or climate. Among the common eruptive 
diseases, measles and erysipelas are most 
frequently observed. The former of these 
diseases prevailed very extensively through- 
out Liberia, in the early part of 1845 ; but 
it was generally milder than it usually is in 
the United States. The latter generally 
appears in a mild form, wiih very little or 
no febrile action in the system. In the 
early part of 1848, small-pox prevailed 
pretty extensively in one of the settle- 
ments ; but, in nearly every case, it was 
in the modified form, called varioloid. 
This form of small-pox has several times 
prevailed, epidemically, in one or other 
of the settlements ; but it seldom proved 
fatal. I never saw but one case of genuine 
variola in Liberia ; although, in some 
cases, the small-pox contagion results in 
the exhibition of this form of the disease, 
during the epidemical prevalence of vario- 
loid. 

A peculiar endemical pustulous affection, 
called ** cra\Mjraw,"or "kru-kru," some- 
times attacks persons who are not very 
careful in regard to cleanliness. It is a very 
common disease among the natives, and 
it is generally regarded as being contagious. 
It is sometimes very painful and trouble- 
some. Another disease of the skin, which 
is common among the natives, and which 
is occasionally observed among the Libe- 
rians, is the " yaws ;" which consists of 
elevated excrescences, usually appearing in 
continuous clusters, and discharging a thin 
corrosive ichor. Sometimes the yaws ap- 
pear on the soles of the feet, and prevent 
the patient from walking. Both these dis- 
eases are tedious and perplexing to both 
the patient and the doctor. 

Lepra, or leprosy, is occasionally seen in 



Liberia ; especially among the aborigines. 
This distressing disease usually appears 
in brownish blotches scattered over the 
body ; from which a corrosive serous fluid 
is discharged. The toes and fingers fre- 
quently become ulcerated ; and sometimes 
the unfortunate invalid loses all the fingers 
on one hand or botli, or all the toes on the 
feet ; and the soles of the feet are sometimes 
marked with deep fissures, or scooped out 
into ugly sores. The blotches on different 
parts of the body sometimes degenerate 
into foul and fetid ulcers of an irregular 
jagged appearance. This miserable disease 
sometimes continues to harass the individ- 
ual for years ; and it frequently results in 
death. I have, however, frequently seen 
native persons who had recovered, with the 
loss of a portion of their hands or feet, or 
of both, after having suffered excruciatingly 
for months or years. I never saw but one 
well-marked case among the Liberians, 
and that was in a very old man. 

The most common and troublesome cu- 
taneous affections, (if they may be so class- 
ed,) that occur in Liberia, are indolent 
ulcers ; which sometimes appear spontane- 
ously ; but which generally result from 
injuries, by which the skin is broken. The 
texture of the cutaneous and the muscular 
fibre seems to be more lax in tropical than 
intemperate climates ; and slight scratches, 
or abrasions of the skin, are much more 
liable to degenerate into ulcers , — the de- 
gree of liability depending on the constitu- 
tional temperament of individuals, their 
habits, mode of living, &c. White persons 
' and mulattoes are more subject to ulcerous 
; affections as well as to most other diseases, 
than black persons ; inconsequence, I pre- 
sume, of their physical systems being less 
adapted to the peculiarities of the climate ; 
a fact which must be admitted by all. 
These ulcers, though not generally very 
painful, are exceedingly annoying, especi- 
ally when they occur on the feet ; and they 



34 



SKETCHES OF LIBERIA. 



Flatulent colic — Intestinal worms — Enlargement of Spleen, &c. 



do not generally heal resdily, sometimes 
continuing for several months. If persons 
would be sufficiently careful to avoid inju- 
ries of the skin, they would not be very 
liable to these troublesome aflections. 

Chronic nervous diseases are not very 
common in Liberia. 1 occasionally met 
with hysteria in females ; and I saw one 
or two cases of epilepsy, and one case of 
tetanus, or locked-jaw. Convulsive affec- 
tions are very rarely met with, in either in- 
fants or adults. Paralytic affections are 
occasionally, though seldom, seen. 1 
never saw a distinctly marked case of 
-whooping-cough in Liberia ; nor did I ever 
hear of its having prevailed epidemically. 

Flatulent colic frequently demands the 
attention of the physician. It is gene- 
rally the result of the imprudent use of 
some indigestible article of food ; and it 
occurs more frequently in persons d^aring 
the first few months of their residence, than 
in old settlers. Sometimes the stomach 
and bowels become greatly distended with 
gas ; and the patient suffers very violent 
pain in the abdomen. I had several attacks 
of this painful affection, during the first 
year of my residence in Liberia ; the most 
violent of which was caused by the eating 
of a small piece of cheese. I was generally 
able to relieve the patient, afflicted with this 
disease, by the administration of a large 
dose of laudanum, followed by a full dose 
of castor oil ; the operation of which was 
sometimes assisted by an active injection ; 
together with the application of a large 
pepper poultice over the abdomen. In 
some cases, especially when attended with 
a tendency to diarrhoea, I gave nothing but 
the laudanum ; or, what sometimes had a 
better effect, a pill composed of one-sixth 
or one-fourth of a grain of morphine and 
two grains of camphor. Persons cannot be 
too careful in avoiding the use of such ar- 
ticles of food as are not easily digestible. 
A very common affection, especially 



among children, is that of intestinal worms. 
The most common kind of worms which 
infest the alimentary canal, is the ascares 
lumbricoides, or common round worm* 
All the other varieties, however, are some- 
times observed. I have seen several cases, 
in which the individuals voided detached 
portions of the tenia, or tape-worm. In pre- 
scribing for patients having worms, I de- 
pended more on the free use of spirits of tur- 
pentine, combined v/ith, or followed by, 
castor oil, than any other vermifuge, in all 
the varieties. Sometimes I gave a few 
grains of calomel, followed in three or foui* 
hours by a free dose of oil and turpentine. 

In Liberia, as in other malarious coun- 
tries or districts, cases of enlargement of the 
spleen^valgarly called "fever-cake" — are 
frequently observed — the result of repeated 
attacks of intermittent fever. This is much 
more common in white than in colored resi- 
dents : very few white persons, indeed, 
are able to live five years in Liberia, with- 
out having more or less enlargement of the 
spleen. It is more frequently met with in 
mulattoes than in black persons: indeed, 1 
do not remember a single case which came 
under my observation, in a person of una- 
dulterated African extraction ; although I 
have no doubt that such persons are some- 
times thus affected. The principal diffi- 
culty that usually arises from this affection, 
is, that it predisposes to dropsical affec- 
tions. In many cases, however, dropsical 
effusions do not follow enlargement of the 
spleen; except occasional swelling of the 
lower extremities. A protracted sea-voy- 
age, or a change of climate, is the only 
means with which I am acquainted, that 
will effect a reduction of this burdensome 
appendage. 

Slight catarrhal affections, (influenza,) 
are occasionally experienced in Liberia; 
especially during the harmattan season; 
but these generally pass off in a few days, 
without any serious injury. I never knew 



SKETCHES OF LIBERIA, 



30 



Catarrhal affections, &c.— " Sleepy Disease.-' 



a case to result in active inflammation of 
any part of the respiratory apparatus. 

Some other diseases which are common 
to most countries, may he occasionally 
observed in Liberia; but the variety is 
much less than in the Unit"ed States; and, 
except in som« old chronic affections, in 
broken-down constitutions, convalescence 
is generally mrich more rapid, in conse- 
quence of the less violence of the attack. 
Among the many attack-s of fever that I 
experienced, I never was obliged to re- 
main in my room more than a week, at any 
one time; and I very seldom was confined 
to my bed longer than twenty -four hours 
at a time. The danger in new-comers gene- 
rally consists more in the frequency, than 
in the violence, of the attacks of sickness. 
And the majority of colored immigrants, 
who have sufficient prudence to use such 
means for the preservation of their health 
in Liberia, as an enlightened judgment 
would dictate, usually enjoy as good health, 
after the first year of their residence, as 
they formerly enjoyed in the United States. 
in some cases, indeed, the state of the 
health of immigrants is decidedly improved 
by the change of residence from America 
to Africa. The large majority of cases of 
sickness that came under my observation, 
among those persons who had resided a 
year or more in Liberia, was in indolent, 
and consequently indigent persons, whose 
prudence was commensurat'e v/ith their 
improvidence. Indeed, in view of the 
heedlessness, carelessness, and indolence 
of some persons, who were scarcely ever 
tiick, I was astonish-ed at their continued 
exemption from disease. 

I will conclude this brief medical history 
of Liberia with a short notice of a peculiar 
■endemic affection, which may be termed 
Lethargus, but which is commonly called 
the '* Sleepy Disease." I have seen eight 
or ten cases, of this somniferous malady; 
i5v« or six of which were among persons 



who had emigrated from the United States. 
It is, however, much more frequently ex- 
hibited among the aborigines than among 
the Liberians. The only characteristic 
mark of this affection, is an irresistible 
tendency to sleep — the patient frequently 
falhng asleep, even while eating. He can 
generally be easily aroused; but he almost 
immediately relapses into a state of pro- 
found slumber. The patient scarcely ever 
experiences the slightest pain; and no feb- 
rile symptoms are usually exhibited, until 
near the fatal close of the incurable malady. 
The appetite is usually voracious, and the 
bowels obstinately constipated. The food 
taken does not seem to nourish the system; 
in consequence of the disordered state of 
the organs of digestion and nutrition; the 
difficulty existing principally, perhaps, in 
the mesenteric glands. Lideed, the whole 
glandular system, including the lymphatic 
and the lacteal glands, seems to be in a 
torpid state, in this affection. No peculiar 
marks of disease are usually exhibited, on 
examination after death. In all cases of 
which I have heard, the brain especially 
appeared to be in a healtliy condition — at 
least, that organ exhibited no perceptible 
evidence of disease; and no other part of 
the body exhibited any peculiar organical 
affection; except some of the lymphatic 
glands, which presented an enlarged and 
inflamed appearance. Those about the 
neck generally appear considerably swell- 
ed; and the natives sometimes extirpate 
those enlarged glands, under the impres- 
sion that they are the source of th« affec- 
tion; with what success in removing the 
disease may be readily imagined by any 
intelligent person, in whom the bump of 
credulity is not too largely developed. 

Among the various causes of this strange 
affection, which have been assigned, per- 
haps no particular one can be fully relied 
on. Indolent habits, unwholesome and 
indigestible vegetable diet, together with 



36 



SKETCHES OF LIBERIA. 



" Conclusion." 



some peculiar influence of the climate, 
associated with tiie prolonged action of 
nuasmata or malaria, operating on a sys- 
tem peculiarly predisposed lo lethargy, 
may be regarded as the exciting cause, by 
v,-hich functional derangement of the ner- 
vous system is produced, resulting in a 
lost balance of the circulation, and a gene- 
ral functional impairment of the whole 
glandular apparatus of the body. The 
disease (if disease it may be called) al- 
ways approaches gradually; sometimes 
several months elapsing before it is fully 
developed. And, although I have had 
pretty fair opportunities of testing the vir- 
tues of various medicinal agents, in differ- 
ent stages of the disease; yet I never was 
able to eflect more than a temporary ces- 
sation of it, in the beginning, or a tem- 
porary mitigation of it, after its full de- 
velopment. 

The most graphic notice of this lazy di- 
sease, with svhich 1 have met, is that given 
in the " Journal of an African Cruiser;" 
and, as I saw the patient in company with 
the author, I will subjoin an extract from 
that interesting little book: " We entered 
the hut without ceremony, and looked 
about us for old Mamma's beautiful grand- 
daughter. But, on beholding the object of 
our search^ a kind of remorse or dread 
came over us; such as often affects those 
who intrude upon the awfulness of slum- 
ber. The girl lay asleep in the adjoining 
apartment, on a mat that was spread over 
the hard ground; and with no pillow be- 
neath her cheek. She slept so quietly , and 
di.-ew such imperceptible breath, that I 
scarcely thought her ahve. With some 



difficulty she was aroused, and she awoke 
with a frightened cry — a strange and bro- 
ken murmur, as if she were looking dimly 
out of her sleep, and knew not whether 
our figures were real, or only the phan- 
tasies of a dream. Her eyes were wild 
and glassy, and she seemed to be in pain. 
While awake, there was a nervous twitch- 
ing about her mouth and in her fingers-, 
but, being again extended on the mat, and 
left to herself, these symptoms of disquie- 
tude passed av.^ay; a.nd she almost imme- 
diately sank again into the deep and 
heavy sleep, in which we found her. This 
poor girl had been suffering — no, not suffer- 
ing, for, except when forcibly aroused, 
there appears to be no uneasiness, but she 
had been lingering two months in a disease 
peculiar to Africa — commonly called the 
« sleepy disease.' Her aspect was incon- 
ceivably affecting. It was strange to be- 
hold her so quietly involved in sleep; from 
which it might be supposed she would 
awake so full of youthful life — and yet to 
know that this was no refreshing slumber j 
but a spell in which she was fast fading 
away from the eyes of those that loved 
her. Whatever might chance, be it grief 
or joy, the effect would be the same. 
Whoever should shake her by the arm — 
whether the accents of a friend fell feebly 
on her ear, or those of strangers, Uke 
ourselves, the only response would be 
that troubled cry, as of a spirit that hover- 
ed on the confines of both worlds, and 
could have sympathy with neither. The 
peal of the last trumpet only will summon 
her out of that mysterious sleep." 



CONCLUSION. 



Had 1 not been apprehensive that I 
might unnecessarily swell the size of this 
little v/ork, by details which may be easily 
obtained from other sources, I might have 



dwelt, at considerable length, on the con- 
sideration of the nature of the civil govern- 
ment, and of the political institutions of 
Liberia. 



SKET.3HES OF LIBERIA. 



37 



Civil government, &c. 



I might also have made particular allu- 
sion to the results of missionary opera- 
tions in Liberia, and its vicinity. But as 
there are various sources whence informa- 
tion may be derived on this subject ; and 
as such allusions and details do not come 
within the scope of the prescribed design 
of this work, it being intended particularly 
for the information of those persons who 
may be in search of truth, with the view 
of making Liberia the place of their future 
residence; I do not deem it necessary or 
proper for me to dwell on the detail of 
particulars, relative to the operations of 
missionary societies; especially as 1 do 
not regard myself as altogether competent 
to present full and faithful statements on 
this subject; and as I feel disposed to write 
only what I do know, and testify what I 
have seen. 

In reference to the civil government of 
Liberia, I may here simply state, that it 
is based on the prmciples of republicanism; 
and, in every essential particular, it may 
be regarded as a miniature representation 
of the Government of the United States; 
the only particular points of difference be- 
ing in the name of the national assembly, 
which is styled Legislature instead of Con- 
gress; and in the time of service of the 
principal officers of the Government. The 
President is elected by the popular vote, for 
two years, and he is eligible to re-election. 
The Senators, of whom there are two from 
each county — six in all — are elected for 
four years, and the Representatives, of 
whom there are eight in all, are elected for 
two years. The only cabinet officers who 
have yet been commissioned are, tie 
Secretaries of State and of the Treasury, 
and the Attorney General. All the officers 
of justice are appointed by the President, 
with the consent of the Senate. The ju- 
dicial pov/er of the Republic is vested in a 
supreme court, a court of quarter sessions 
in each county, and magistrate's courts. 



which meet monthly. No white person is 
allowed to become a citizen; consequently, 
white residents cannot hold any office in 
the Government. 

The Government of Liberia is now al- 
together in the hands, and under the entire 
management of the citizens of Liberia; no 
white person, on either side of the Atlantic, 
being, in any way, connected with its ope- 
rations. And if the disputed question has 
not yet been fully settled, whether colored 
persons are ■capable of self-government or 
not, a few years will decide the point. The 
people of Liberia are now fairly '^self- 
poised;" and feeling confident, as I do, of 
the clemency and forbearance of all fo- 
; reign nations towards this infant Repub- 
lic, so long as the Government shall be 
' maintained on the principles of national 
rectitude, (without which no government 
is worthy of encouragement,) I am quite 
satisfied that if the Republic of Liberia 
[ shall ingloriously fall, and her institutions 
be demolished, or if those institutions 
shall be voluntarily transferred to the con- 
trol and managemeni of any foreign power, 
the result will indubitably exhibit the mel- 
ancholy fact, that the maintenance of an in- 
dependent government by the colored race 
is at least a subject of doubtful practica- 
bility. I confidently hope, however, that 
the "lone star" of the Republic of Li- 
beria, which is now culminating over a 
portion of the western coast of benighted 
Africa, will continue to shine, not like the 
brilliant meteor, or the erratic comet, but 
like the effulgent orb of day, which sheds 
his enlivening beams with increasing splen- 
dor as he ascends above the fleecy clouds 
that overhang the eastern sky. 

In addition to the brief reflections which 
have been thrown out in the different parts 
of this work, I would here make a few 
suggestions which maybe worthy the par- 
ticular attention of those persons wlio may 



38 



SKETCHES OF LIBERIA 



Cultivation of the Soil — the chief source of wealth and independence. 



emigrate to Liberia. The reader will, no 
doubt, be fully convinced, if he believes 
the statements herein exhibited, of the 
practicability of a comfortable competency 
being realized in Liberia, as the reward of 
industry and frugality. And the intelli- 
gent man of color, who is accustomed to 
observation and reflection cannot but be 
convinced that he may enjoy the privileges 
of a freeman in tbefullimport of the term, 
of which he is virtually deprived in every 
part of the United States, by the conven- 
tional rules of society among the domi- 
nant inheritors of a fairer complexion. 
But while I do not hesitate, in view of the 
facts set forth in this work, to recom- 
mend Liberia as an inviting field for enteiv 
prise, and a desirable place of residence; 
I may here state that, during my residence 
there, my eyes were not too frequently 
dazzled by captivating sights of agricul- 
tural industry, and of mechanical enter- 
prise, to blind me to the conviction that 
much remains to be done before the little 
African Republic can be regarded as an 
earthly paradise. 

In reference to the cultivation of the soil, 
especially, which is the true road to inde- 
pendence in any country, I may remark, 
that comparatively few of the present citi- 
rens of Liberia are regularly and syste- 
matically engaged in this branch of practi- 
cal industry. Unfortunately for the pros- 
perity of Liberia, many of the earlier set- 
tlers fancied that they had found a more 
c-asy and more speedy highway to wealth, 
in the wholesale, retail, and demoralizing 
system of barter with their ignorant ab- 
original neighbors; and many of their suc- 
cessors, lured on by this apparently ac- 
commodating means of ease and comfort, 
started their little crafts in the wakes of 
those of their predecessors; and not a few 
of them, in their eagerness to become rich, 
l.ave failed to be warned by the disasters 
which attended many of those who pre- 



ceded them. But happily for Liberia, 
the traffic in cam-wood and palm oil is be- 
coming so unprofitable, in consequence of 
excess of competition, not only among the 
Liberians themselves, but among foreign 
traders, that it must soon occupy a station^ 
as a source of wealth, inferior to that of 
the cultivation of the soil: the siren song 
i of commercial experiment must give place 
to the cheerful hum of agricultural in- 
dustry. 1 trust that the citizens of Li- 
beria are generally becoming aroused to a 
consciousness of this important truth, and 
indeed during the last few years more at- 
tention has been given to agriculture than 
previously. Yet much remains to be ac- 
complished, to demonstrate to distant na- 
tions the fact that Liberia is one of the most 
productive countries in the world; a fact, 
which I believe may, and I hope will be 
clearly demonstrated by the quantity and 
quality of agricultural products that may 
be exported, and by the comfort and in- 
dependence of a respectable yeomanry. 

A more regular, systematic and persever- 
ing course of farming operations must, 
however, be introduced. Greater atten- 
tion ought also to be given to agricultural 
experiments, to develope the resources of 
the soil; and to ascertain the most appro- 
priate periods of the year for the planting 
of different vegetable substances. Much 
more attention should also be given to the 
raising of different kinds of stock; and to 
the introduction of various mechanical in- 
ventions> in carrying on agricultural opera- 
tions. 

One very important thing which has re- 
ceived very limited attention in Liberia, is 
that of fencing, or the enclosing of lots and 
fields; by the neglect of which, many per- 
sons have frequently lost the principal part 
of the fruits of their labor, in the tilling of 
the soil. Undoubtedly, the best fences 
that can be made in Liberia are those that 
are commonly called "growing fences/* 



SKETCHES OF LIBERIA. 



39 



Concluding remarks. 



made by planting certain shrubs closely 
together, and trimming them occasionally. 
Several different kinds of shrubs may be 
easily and abundantly procured, for making 
these fences. And, with proper attention, 
a piece of land may, in two or three 
years, be thus securely and substantially 
enclosed with a fence that will last many 
years. 

Hitherto, the people of Liberia general- 
ly have been too easily intimidated or dis- 
couraged by comparatively small obsta- 
cles; some of Mdiich have been more imag- 
inary than reah Difficulties, however, do 
reahy exist; but these difficulties are gene- 
rally far less than those which exist in 
carrying on farming operations in any part 
of the United States. And I am quite 
satisfied that every thing which is really 
necessary for human subsistence and com- 
fort, together with many luxuries, can be 
raised in Liberia, with much less labor 
than would be required to procure the 
necessaries of life in the United States. 

Let the cultivation of the soil, then, re- 
ceive that attention which it should receive, 
as the principal means of wealth — let a 
regular, systematic, and persevering course 
of agricultural operations be carried on; 
and the citizens of Liberia may live in ease 
and comfort and independence. 



In tracing the various events connected 
with the rise and progress of the Repub- 
lic of Liberia, no unprejudiced individual 
can for a moment doubt that the smiles of 
Heaven have rested upon it; and that the 
sheltering wings of a kind Providence 
have been spread over it for good — not only 
to the immigrants from this country, but 
to the benighted and degraded aborigines 
of Africa — a land which has so long been 
enveloped in the darkness of heathenism. 
And, in view of the social and political 
position and relations of colored persons 
tn the United States, contrasted with the 



position and relations of the free and inde- 
pendent citizens of that young Republic, 
it must be admitted by all candid persons, 
that the condition of those people in Li- 
beria who are disposed to use the necessary 
appliances for making themselves truly in- 
dependent, is vastly superior to that of free 
people of color in any part of this country. 

Though many difficulties have been en- 
countered in the progressive exaltation of 
the infant Colony to the present interest- 
ing and flourishing Republic, and though 
many obstacles wiil necessarily be pre- 
sented to its onward progress; yet it is 
clearly evident that the experiment has 
been fairly tried — the experiment of estab- 
lishing on the coast of Africa a community 
and government of colored immigrants 
from this country — and has been crowned 
with complete success; a success even be- 
yond the most sanguine expectations of the 
benevolent founders of the Colonization 
Society; who amidst difficulties which 
seemed almost insurmountable, determined 
to try what could be done towards the es- 
tablishment on the coast of Africa of an 
asylum and a home for the people of color 
of the United States; who, in the language 
of a public journalist, ''are here restricted 
in the exercise of the very elementary 
principles of existence best calculated to 
expand and exalt the heart and mind," 
and who, in every part of this country, 
must continue to labor under political and 
social disadvantages; from which they can 
be fully rescued in no other way than by 
voluntarily emigrating to a country in 
which the restrictions that are here thrown 
around them cannot operate — a country in 
which they may enjoy the benefits of free 
government, with all the blessings of civil 
and religious liberty. 

In the providence of God, by the efforts 
of those who have been ''laborers to- 
gether with him," such an asylum has 
been established: difficulties which at first 



40 



SKETCHES OF LIBERIA. 



Concluding remarks. 



appeared almost insuperable have been 
overcome; and Liberia now presents an 
inviting field for commercial enterprise and 
agricultural industry, and a desirable home 
for all persons of color who wish to realize 
Che privileges of freedom and the blessings 
of independence. 

But while I would heartily recommend 
Liberia as a desirable place of residence 
for colored persons who are disposed to 
appreciate the advantages and to improve 
the privileges there afforded, I would not 
advise any person to emigrate thither, who 
will not go cheerfully, and with a deter- 
mination to try to overcome every obstacle 
that may be presented. I am decidedly of 
opinion, that, with a cheerful, contented 
mind, and industrious habits, colored per- 
sons may live more easily, more comforta- 
bly, and moreindependently than they can 
in the United States. In Liberia, how- 
ever, as in all other new countries, indus- 
try and perseverance are necessary ; and 
while to the man of enterprise and frugali- 
ty it affords a desirable home, and promi- 
ses a rich rev/ard to his labors, it offers 
no encouragement to those who expect to 
live in luxurious ease and pampered in- 
dolence. 

In conclusion, I would repeat, that I 
firmly believe that the hand of an overrul- 
ing Providence has been extended over 
the progressive course of that little Repub- 
lic. And, whatever may be said in op- 
position to the wise and benevolent scheme 
of Colonization ; and however apparently 
plausible may be the objections of persons 
who are unfriendly to the cause ; it is 
clearly evident to any individual whose 
mind is unprejudiced, especially to those 
■who have had opportunities for personal 
observation and investigation as to the re- 
sults of that enterprise, that it is one of 
the instruments in the hands of the Al- 
mighty Ruler of the universe for carrying 



out his wise designs with reference to 
Afx'ica. And in view of what has already 
been accomplished, and of the incalculable 
amount of good which may yet be accom- 
plished, through the instrumentality of the 
Colonization Society, and of the Republic 
of Liberia ; surely no true friend of the 
colored race can consistently oppose the 
operations of the former, or withhold the 
expression or exhibition of a sincere de- 
sire for the continued prosperity of the 
latter. 

Through the instrumentality of the 
Government of Liberia, much has been 
done towards the suppression of the nefa- 
rious traffic in slaves. Within the juris- 
diction of that miniature Republic, whence, 
a few years ago, hundreds and thousands 
of miserable beings were transported, like 
inanimate objects of merchandize, to the 
western world, the slave-trade has been 
entirely abolished ; and many of the con- 
tiguous native tribes have laid down their 
weapons of warfare, and have sought the 
protection of that Government. And 1 
verily believe that God intends that the 
mental illumination of the degraded ab" 
origines of Africa, is to be effected chiefly 
by her own returning civilized and chris- 
tian children — by the influence and exam- 
ple of colored immigrants and teachers 
from this side of the Atlantic ; carrying 
with them and introducing amon^ the i^:- 
norant natives, habits of civilized life, and 
the blessings of the gospel of peace and 
salvation ; and by the missionary labors 
of enlightened and converted native inhab- 
itants. Thus shall the belligerent hordes 
of Africa be induced to convert their in- 
struments of warfare into agricultural im- 
plements ; thus shall the slave-trade be 
effectually and forever suppressed ; and 
thus shall Ethiopia be taug-ht to stretch 
out her hands unto God. 



APPENDIX. 



Sketch of the History of liiberia. 



On the 21st Decembei-, 1816, a meeting 
of citizens of various parts of the United 
States was held in the city of Washington, 
"for the purpose of considering the ex- 
pediency and practicabiUty of ameUorating 
the condition of the free people of color in 
the United States, by providing a colonial 
retreat, either on this continent, or that of 
Africa." The Hon. Henry Clay was 
called to the chair, and Thos. Dougherty, 
Esq., appointed Secretary of the meeting. 
At this meeting, it was " Resolved, That 
an association or society be formed for 
the purpose of collecting information, and 
to assist in the formation and execution of 
a plan for the colonization of the free 
people of color, with their consent, in Af- 
rica, or elsewhere, as may be thought 
most advisable by the constituted authori- 
ties of the country." A committee was 
appointed to prepare a constitution, and 
rules for the government of the associa- 
tion or society. At an adjourned meeting 
held in the Hall of the House of Repre- 
sentatives, on the 28th of the same month, 
•' a constitution was reported by the com- 
mittee appointed for that purpose ; and 
having been discussed and amended, was 
unanimously adopted by the meeting." — 
And, on motion, it was «' Resolved, That 
the first election of officers of the Society 
shall be held on Wednesday, the ist day 
of January, 1817 :" on which day the 
American Colonization Society (originally 
called " the American Society for colon- 
izing the free people of color of the United 
States") was fully organized by the elec- 
tion of the Hon. Bushrod Washington as 
President, the Hon. Henry Clay, and 
twelve other gentlemen, as Vice Presi- 
dents, Elias B. Caldwell as Secretary, W. 
G. D. Worthington as Recorder, David 
English as Treasurer, and twelve gentle- 
men as a Board of Managers. 

The interest in the objects or designs 
of the Society continued to increase during 
the year ; and in the month of November. 
1817, the Rev. Samuel J. Mills and the 
Rev. Ebenezer Burgess, who had been 
commissioned by the Society, sailed for 
the western coast of Africa, by way of 
England, for the purpose of acquiring in- 
formation, and of making observations, 
preparatory to the establishment of a 
colony. From the Report of Mr. Bur- 
gess, on his return to the United States, 



(Mr. Mills having died on the homeward 
voyage,) the Society was encouraged to 
proceed in its benevolent enterprise. 

In the month of February, 1820, the 
first company of emigrants, under the au- 
spices of the American Colonization So- 
ciety, embarked at New York, for Africa, 
in the ship Elizabeth, which was char- 
tered by the United States Government. 
This expedition, consisting of eighty-six 
colored emigrants, was accompanied by 
three white persons, the Rev. Samuel Ba- 
con, Mr. John P. Bankson, and Dr. Sam- 
uel A. Crozer. They proceeded by way of 
Sierra Leone to the Island of Sherbro,at 
which place they had obtained permission 
to reside, until an eligible site could be 
purchased on the main land. But as this 
was a very unhealthy location, and as 
these pioneers of African Colonization 
were necessarily deprived of many of the 
necessaries, as well as comforts of life, 
many of them were soon seized with fe- 
ver ; and within a few months, all of the 
white men, and about one-fourth of the 
emigrants, died. The remainder sought 
and obtained permission of the authorities 
of Sierra Leone to locate temporarily in 
that colony, until a better site than Sher- 
bro could be procured. 

In the early part of the year 1821, the 
second company, consisting of thirty- 
three emigrants, and four white persons 
as agents of the Society and the United 
States Government, sailed from Norfolk 
for the coast of Africa. This expedition 
reached Sierra Leone on the 9th of March, 
and joined the survivors of the first com- 
pany. In the latter part of this year, 
through the efforts of Dr. Eli Ayres and 
Lieutenant (now Commodore) R. F. 
Stockton, a valuable tract of land was 
purchased from the chiefs of the Dey 
tribe ; and in the months of January and 
February, 1822, the little band were re- 
moved from Sierra Leone to a small 
island near the mouth of the Mesurado 
river, (called by them Perseverance Island) 
which they occupied until arrangements 
could be made for the occupancy of a part 
of the main land that had been purchased. 
On the 25th of April, 1822, the American 
flag was first hoisted on Cape Mesurado ; 
the site of the present handsome and 
flourishing town of Monrovia ; the colo- 
nists having all removed from the little 



42 



SKETCHES OF LIBERIA. 



Sketch of the History of Liberia. 



island, and fixed themselves as comfort- 
ably as circumstances would admit at 
their new home — the nucleus of what is 
now the sovereign and independent Re- 
public of Liberia. 

Such was the beginning of the practical 
operations of the African Colonization en- 
terprise. 

The colonists, hov/ever, were not long 
permitted to remain in the peaceful pos- 
session of their new home It soon be- 
came evident that the svtrrounding native 
tribes contemplated an attack on the in- 
fant colony. And on the arrival of Mr. 
Ashmun, in August, 1822, he soen per- 
ceived the necessity of some vigorous 
means being adopted to afFoi-d security 
against the dangers lo which the settlers 
were exposed from the treachery and 
cruelty of the hostile native tribes around 
them ; and he immediately commenced a 
system of operations to improve the con- 
dition of the little colony. The emigrants 
remained in a state of anxiety, watchful- 
ness, suffering, and uncertainty, until 
early in the morning of the 11th Novem- 
ber, when a large body of armed natives 
made their appearance, and commenced 
the deadly assault. After a fierce contest 
of about two hours, the assailants were 
forced to retreat, with the loss of about 
150 men. Notwithstanding their repul- 
sion and loss, they did not abandon their 
design of endeavoring to exterminate the 
colonists. And on the morning of the 2d 
December, they renewed the attack, with 
a much larger force. But in this, as in 
the former battle, they were repulsed, and 
forced to retire, with considerable loss. — 
During these two assaults, which were 
met by the colonists with that bravery 
and determination that were inspired by 
the consciousness of total destruction, in 
case of defeat, four men and one woman 
were killed, and four men and two wo- 
men severely wounded; and seven chil- 
dren captured, all of whom were after- 
wards returned. The last battle fully sat- 
isfied the surrounding natives of the su- 
jieriority of their new neighbors, not- 
withstandmg their extremely small num- 
ber, (not over thirty-five men ;) and the 
time of this battle has ever since been re- 
garded as the epoch of the full establish- 
ment of the colony (now the Republic) of 
Liberia on the western coast of Africa. 
As such, its anniversary is kept as a day 
of public thanksgiving. 

Since that time, though the colonists 
have met with various reverses, and have 
l>een obliged in a faw instances to take 



up arms against some of the contiguous 
native tribes ; yet, during most of the time, 
the dove of peace has hovered over them, 
and the sun of prosperity has shone upon 
their pathway, with but few intervening 
clouds. And in a little more than a quar- 
ter of a century from the time when the 
stars and stripes were first hoisted on that 
forest-clad Cape, by a little company of 
daring adventurers, the voice of a new- 
born Republic was heard asking admis- 
sion into the family of nations ; five of 
which (Great Britain, France, Prussia, 
Belgium and Brazil,) have freely and fully 
acknowledged her sovereignty and inde- 
pendence. And there, on the coast of 
that benighted land, the fires of civil and 
religious liberty, which have thus been 
lighted, will no doubt continue to blaze 
out in attractive loveliness, until their in- 
fluences shall be felt throughout the length 
and breadth of that vast peninsula. 

Under the administration of the self- 
sacrificing and indefatigable Ashmun, who 
presided over the destinies of the infant 
colony, with a few brief intervals of re- 
laxation, until the spring of 1828, (nearly 
six years,) the condition of the first settle- 
ment greatly improved, and other settle- 
ments were commenced ; additional terri- 
tory was procured by purchase from the 
native chiefs : and the number of the col- 
onists was considerably increased by ac- 
cessions from the United States — about 
eight hundred new immigrants having ar- 
rived . 

The Rev. Mr. Ashmun, who had so 
long labored and suffered for the good of 
Liberia, at last sunk under the weight of 
his burdens : his physical system became 
entirely prostrated ; and as the only pos- 
sibility of recovery, he resolved to sail 
for the United States. Accordingly, on 
the 25th of March, 1828, he embarked for 
the home of his childhood, after having 
taken an aflfectionate leave of the weeping 
and sorrowful companions of his exile. — 
A few days after his arrival in this coun- 
try, his wearied, worn-out body found a 
resting place in the silent grave-yard, and 
his freed spirit a home in heaven. On the 
departure of JVlr. Ashmun, the superin- 
tendence of affairs devolved on the Rev. 
Lott Cary, one of the early immigrants, 
who had already proved himself to be 
eminently useful to his fellow pioneers ; 
but whose career of usefulness was ter- 
minated by death, on the evening of the 
8th of November, 1828, by the accidental 
explosion of a quantity of powder, in 
the old agency house, in which he and 



APPENDIX 



43 



Sketch of the History of Liberia. 



ethers were engaged in making cart- 
ridges. 

The successorof Mr Ashmun, Doctor 
Richard Randal!, arrived at Monrovia on 
the 22d December, 1828, accompanied by 
%)v. Joseph Mechhn, Jr., as Colonial 
Physician and Surgeon. Dr. Randall en- 
tered on the performance of the duties of 
his station with a zeal and enthusiasm 
which soon proved that his mental en- 
ergies, and his enterprising spirit were 
too ardent for his physical system, while 
exposed to the debilitating influences of 
the climate, and the local accessory agents 
of disease, of intertropical Africa. He 
was removed by death from the scene of 
his labors and sufferings, after a residence 
of less than four months in the Colony. — 
The duties of the agency, as well as those 
of the medical department, thus devolved 
on Dr. Mechlin, who was afterwards ap- 
pointed to that station by the Society ; and 
who remained in charge of the agency 
until the latter part of the year 1833, when 
he returned to the United States, and re- 
signed his office. During his agency, the 
accession of immigrants from the United 
States was very considerable ; and among 
the various evidences of progress, was the 
purchase of a fine tract of territory on the 
St. John's river, and the commencement 
of the settlement of Edina, near the mouth 
of that river. Several mission stations, 
under the auspices of different societies in 
Europe and the United States, were es- 
tablished in the Colony ; and the progress 
of civilization and Christianity among the 
contiguous native tribes was very en- 
couraging. 

Dr. Mechlin was succeeded in the 
agency by the Rev. J. B. Pinney, who 
performed the duties pertaining to that 
important station, until about the middle 
of the year 1835, when, in consequence of 
iil-health, he returned to the United States. 
The Rev. Ezekiel Skinner, M. D., was 
liis successor. 

In the early part of .1834, the Colony of 
" Maryland in Liberia," located at Cape 
Palmas, under the auspices of the Mary- 
land State Colonization Society, was com- 
menced under the direction and superin- 
tendence of Dr. James Hall, who had pre- 
viously resided at Monrovia as assistant 
physician, and who remained in charge of 
the new Colony about two years. 

In the early part of the following year, 
(1835,) a new settlement was commenced 
at Bassa Cove, under the auspices of the 
Pennsylvania Colonization Society. — 
Shortly after its establishment, it was at- 



tacked by a native chief, named Jo Har- 
ris, in command of a body of men, who 
rushed upon the defenceless settlers, and 
massacred about twenty of them. Those 
who succeeded in escaping, afterwards lo- 
cated on the St. John's river, opposite 
Edina, where there is a flourishing com- 
mercial town. 

During the year 1836, the settlement of 
Marshall, at the mouth of Junk river was 
commenced ; and during the same year, 
an important tract of land was purchased 
on the Sinou river, and a settlement com- 
menced, under the auspices of the Mis- 
sissippi Colonization Society. In the month 
of September of this year, Dr. Skinner 
was obliged to leave the Colony, in con- 
sequence of the impaired state of his 
health, brought on principally by his ar- 
duous and multifarious duties ; and the 
duties of the agency again devolved on 
the Rev. A. D. Williams, a colonise, who 
had occupied the position of agent during 
the absence of Dr Mechlin, while on a 
visit to the United States in 1830 ; and 
who continued to fill the office until the 
arrival of Thomas Buchanan, Esq., as 
Governor of the " Commonwealth," on 
the 1st of April, 1839 ; which event marks 
a new epoch in the history of Liberia. — 
During the latter part of the preceding 
year (1838) all the State Colonization So- 
cieties, except the Maryland Society, be- 
came more intimately united as auxiliaries 
to the parent Society ; and, by agreement, 
the different colonies in Liberia, except 
the Maryland Colony, were consolidated 
under one Government, to be called the 
Commonwealth of Liberia ; and Thomas 
Buchanan, Esq., who had spent one year 
at Bassa Cove as agent for the New York 
and Pennsylvania Societies, was appointed 
Governor of the ^Commonwealth ; which 
office he filled with dignity and g-eat use- 
fulness about two years and a half, when 
(on the 3d September, 1841,) Liberia and 
the American Colonization Society were 
deprived by death of his valuable services 
— a loss that was keenly felt and deeply 
lamented by all who felt interested in the 
prosperity of Liberia, on both sides of the 
Atlantic. 

During the administration of Governor 
Buchanan, the foundation of the Liberian 
enterprise was more firmly established than 
it ha(l ever been before ; and general pros- 
perity prevailed throughout the different 
settlements. The several departments of 
the government were more systematically 
arranged, and more attention was given to 
agriculture and education than in formei* 



44 



SKETCHES OF LIBERIA. 



Native Africans in Liberia. 



years. The citizens of Liberia were thus 
better prepared to assume the entire re- 
sponsibilities of self-government. 

By the death of Governor Buchanan, 
the management of the Government de- 
volved on General Joseph J. Roberts, the 
Lieutenant Governor, who was appointed 
Governor of the Commonwealth by the 
Colonization Society, soon after the melan- 
choly tidings of the death of Governor 
Buchanan reached the United States ; and 
who continued to fill the office with dignity 
and acceptability, under the auspices of 
the Society, until the establishment of the 
Republic, and the consequent new organi- 



zation of the Government. In the month 
of July, 1847, a Convention of delegates, 
elected by the people, met at Monrovia, 
and formed the Constitution of the Repub- 
lic OF Liberia, which, with a Declaration 
of Independence, was adopted by the 
people, and published to the world. In 
the month of October of that year, Go- 
vernor Roberts was elected, and on the 
3d of January, 1848, was regularly in- 
stalled, the first President of the Republic ; 
to which responsible position he has been 
several times re-elected ; and the duties of 
which he has performed with patriotic de- 
votion to the interests of the country. 



Native Africans in Liberia.— Their Customs and Superstitions. 



Like the aborigines of our own country, 
those of Africa are divided into numerous 
tribes, each tribe having a dialect differing 
to a greater or less extent from those of 
the contiguous tribes, and each being 
characterized by some national peculiari- 
ties ; the difference, however, in appear- 
ance, customs, and superstitions, not be- 
ing very great among the different tribes 
within the territory of Liberia. 

The principal tribes in Liberia and its 
immediate vicinity, are, the Dey, Vey, 
Bassa, Clueah, Golah, Pessah, Kroo, 
Fish, and Grebo ; the last named being 
that tribe in the immediate vicinity of 
Cape Pal mas. 

The government among the different 
tribes may be regarded as a kind of com- 
pound of the patriarchal, the oligarchal, 
and the monarchical. In every tribe, 
there is one man who is recognised as the 
head king, to whom all the other kings 
and chiefs of the tribe are nominally sub- 
ordinate. African kings, however, are 
very numerous. Indeed, in almost every 
community, there is one man who is re- 
garded as a king : his jurisdiction extend- 
ing over a single hamlet, or a small tract 
of country, including within its limits 
several small hamlets. 

As in European monarchical Govern- 
ments, So among the native tribes of 
Africa, royalty and governmental author- 
ity are usually hereditary. — The legal 
successor of a departed kmg, however, 
cannot assume his royal station and au- 
thority without the concurrence of all the 
other kings of the tribe: and not unfre- 
quently some other individual, not of the 
royal family, is appointed by the other I 
kings, with the concurrence of the people I 
over whom he is to preside, in conse- ' 



quence of the minority of the rightful suc- 
cessor — though he may be a man of thir- 
ty years of age, or more — or of some 
other difficulty either imaginary or real. 
The kingly succession is not so scrupu- 
lously observed in Africa, as in Europe. 
And not unfrequently, like Bonaparte and 
Cromwell, some daring adventurer, some- 
times of another and distant tribe, wiil 
usurp the power and authority rightly 
belonging to another, arid set up a domin- 
ion or kingdom for himself, vi et armis, 
as in the case of the celebrated Boatswain, 
who rendered valuable assistance to the 
early settlers of Liberia. 

In most cases, the title is the only thing 
of which African kings can boast. None 
of them are ever burdened with wealtli. 
Indeed, most of them are miserably poor. 
I have seen half a dozen kings, and ?.s 
many chiefs and headmen, at one time, 
sitting on the ground, as humble mendi- 
cants, in submissive patience, awaiting :o 
receive a " dash" (present) of a fev/ 
pounds of tobacco, from a gentleman in 
Liberia, at whose place of residence they 
had assembled. 

In addition to those persons who are 
dignified with the honorable appellation 
of king, there are others of subordinate 
authority, who are generally called head- 
men. In each hamlet, however small, 
there is a headman, who has more or less 
control over all the other residents of the 
place, and who is responsible for their 
conduct. The principal mark of distinc- 
tion between the kings, or the headmen, 
and the rest of the people, usually con- 
sists in the size of the garments which 
they respectively wear ; those of the for- 
mer generally being ratlier more extensive 
than those of the latter. Their style of 



APPENDIX. 



45 



Native Africans in Liberia. 



living does not differ materially from that 
of any of their subjects, and their palaces 
cannot generally be distinguished from the 
residences of their untitled subordinates. 

The natives about Liberia invariably 
reside in towns, or hamlets, few of which 
contain more than five hundred inhabi- 
tants, and most of them less than two 
hundred. The whole country, except in 
the immediate vicinity of these towns or 
hamlets, which are very numerous, pre- 
sents a deep unbroken forest, the solemn 
silence of which is seldom disturbed, save 
by the footsteps and voices of travelers, 
and the noise of wild animals. The 
houses or huts in which they reside are 
generally rudely constructed of sticks, 
usually lined with strong bamboo mats, 
with which the dirt floors are also some- 
times covered. They are always covered 
with thatch, and sometimes they are 
daubed outside with mud. Some of their 
huts are constructed with a little regard to 
taste and convenience, some are pretty 
substantially built, but most of them are 
filthy, smoky, ugly, disagreeable hovels, 
presenting indubitable evidence of extreme 
indolence and improvidence on the part 
of the inmates. 

Their almost universal style of dress 
consists simply of a piece of cotton cloth, 
or a cotton handkerchief, fastened loosely 
about their loins ; in addition to which, a 
kind of hat is sometimes (not generally) 
worn, composed of the fibres of some one 
of the numerous indigenous vegetable 
substances, or of a kind of grass. In ad- 
dition to the ordinary <' girdle about the 
loins," some of the natives, particularly 
the kings and headmen, wear a kind of 
robe, loosely thrown across one shoulder, 
and wrapped around the body. These 
robes are generally manufactured in the 
country, from the native cotton, which 
they spin by a very simple though tedious 
process, and weave into narrow strips, 
never more than six inches wide, by a 
process exhibiting a little ingenuity, but 
not less tedious than that of the spinning. 

A great deal of their time is occupied 
in dancing and singing, and in a variety 
of nonsensical plays. These plays are 
frequently kept up, day and night, for 
several successive days, and sometimes 
for several weeks. I have frequently heard 
the sound of their rudely-constructed 
drums, and other instruments of music, 
at neaily all hours of both day and night. 
Some of their musical instruments are 
quite fanciful in appearance ; but none 
that I ever saw exhibited much ingenuity 



in their construction. They have various 
systems of gambling ; and many of them 
are very expert in some of their games. 
It is not uncommon to see half a dozen, 
or more, strong, healthy natives, sitting 
on the ground, busily engaged in gam- 
bling, the amount at stake being a pipe 
full of tobacco. 

Several of the tribes have national marks, 
by which the members of a particular 
tribe may be distinguished from those of 
any other tribe ; in addition to which, the 
bodies of some are variously, and some- 
times very fantastically, tattooed, partic- 
ularly the breast, back, and arms. Their 
process of tattooing consists in making 
numerous small incisions in the skin, 
over which they rub a kind of paste, usu- 
ally made of the ashes of a particular 
shrub, mixed with palm-oil, which leaves 
an indelible impression, somewhat darker 
than the contiguous surface. 

Domestic slavery is very common 
among all the tribes to which I have allu- 
ded, and, I presume, among all the nu- 
merous tribes throughout the whole of 
Africa. So far as 1 was able to learn, the 
Kroomen and the Fishmen are the only 
tribes on that part of the western coast 
who do not enslave persons of their tribe, 
they never enslave each other, and they 
are seldom enslaved by others. They, 
however, frequently possess slaves of other 
tribes ; and they are the most active 
" aiders and abettors" of the nefarious 
traffic on that part of the coast. They 
are generally employed in conducting the 
slaves from the marts on the coast to the 
slave ships ; and from them principally is 
derived the information relative to the state 
of the trade. 

In most cases the slaves owned by 
individuals of any tribe are of some 
other tribe. Those v\ho are captured 
in the wars, and thus reduced to sla- 
very, are generally sold to foreigners; 
while many of those who are purchased 
are kept tor years by the individuals to 
whom they belong. It is not uncommon 
for one man to own several scores of 
slaves ; and in some cases, among the 
wealthy sons of the forest, several hun- 
dreds of their fellow-beings submit in 
humble obedience to the authority oftheir 
princely master. It is not improbable, in- 
deed, that at least five-sixths of the whole 
population of Africa are slaves. In visit- 
ing an African hamlet, however, a stran- 
ger would be at a loss to distinguish slaves 
from free men, or even from their mas- 
ters. But, though they are of similar 



46 



SKETCHES OP LIBERIA. 



Native Africans in Liberia. 



complexion i and though no prominent 
mark or badge of distinction can be seen 
by strangers, yet slaves are easily recog- 
nised by other members of the same com' 
munity,and by members of other commu- 
nities of the same tribes, and enven by indi- 
viduals of contiguous tribes. In many ca- 
ses, however, they Uveas well as their mas- 
ters do ; and in some cases the state of 
bondage is apparently only nominal . But, 
like slaves in other countries, they are al^ 
ways deprived of certain civil and politi- 
cal immunities^ which deprivation of course 
tends to degrade them in the estimation of 
their more highly favored neighbors. On 
some parts of the coast, however, as in 
the vicinity of the Gaboon river, and per- 
haps in many other parts of Africa, slaves 
are generally treated with the utmost se- 
verity, and are regarded by the free peo- 
ple with the utmost detestation. I have 
been informed that, among some tribes, 
they are held in so little estimation that 
the master may take their lives (which is 
not unfrequently done) for the most tri- 
fling offence, with perfect impunity, no le- 
gal process ever being instituted to pun- 
ish the inhuman master in any way ; and 
the only punishment which any other free 
man would have to endure, for a similar 
offence, would be the payment of the val- 
uation of the slave to his master. 

In many communities the number of 
slaves is much greater than that of the free 
persons; and it might be supposed that 
insurrections would be common. This, 
however, is not the case. It might also be 
supposed that slaves would frequently run 
away, inasmuch as the recognized mark 
of distinction^— the difference in cutaneous 
hue — which exists in the United States 
between masters and slaves does not exist 
in Africa, and no other particular mark by 
which they could be known as slaves. — 
But they seldom resort to this expedient to 
obtain their freedom, knowing as they do 
that such a course (to use a familiar simile) 
would be a jump from the frying-pan 
into the fire, inasmuch as they would be 
doomed to slavery by the people among 
whom they had fled ; and very probably 
their situation wou'd be worse than before. 

The ordinary valuation of an able-bodied 
slave IS about thirty dollars, in goods ; 
being from fifteen to twenty dollars in 
money. Young females generally sell for 
a few dollars more than males. Very of- 
ten the wives, or some of them, of African 
" gentlemen," are their purchased slaves. 
And sometimes when they get tired of 
their •' better halves," they do not hesitate 
to sell them to the highest bidder. The 



custom of fathers selling their children, 
which is not, 1 think, so common as it is 
usually represented in written accounts of 
the horrors of the African slave trade, 
arises from the circumstance of the moth- 
ers of those children being slaves, and their 
offspring being so regarded, notwithstand- 
ing, as in some instances in other coun- 
tries, father and master are terms of 
synonymous applicability. 

In regard to the various superstitious 
notions of the ignorant and degraded 
aborigines of Africa, it would be difRcuh 
to measure their extent in any community, 
or to fathom the depth of degradation and 
misery thus handed down from one gen- 
eration to another. 

Among the numerous absurd opinions 
of a superstitious character which prevail 
in Western Africa, and which lead to the 
most foolish practices, the universal bel'ef 
in witchcraft occupies the most prominent 
position. And, associated with this belief, 
and arising from it, are many of the most 
nonsensical practices of which the mind 
can conceive. So grossly absurd, indeed, 
are the incoherent views of the uneducated 
native African, in reference to the magical 
influences of witchcraft) that it is next to 
impossible to witness their foolish prac- 
tices, resulting from this belief, even after 
making every allowance for their want of 
facilities of intellectual culture, without ar- 
riving at the conclusion that there is a natu- 
ral obliquity of the African mind, unpar- 
alleled in all other countries. This pre- 
vailing and settled belief in the influences 
of witchcraft often leads to murderous 
practices, by which thousands of these 
poor, degraded beings are hurried into 
eternity. A most absurd superstition, 
common among them, is, that no person 
(except very old and wornout people) 
dies, unless by the agency of some other 
person, who, according to their notions?, 
" made witch "^ for the deceased individ- 
ual ', no matter what may be the circurr.^ 
stances attending his death — whether by 
protracted disease, or by accident. Sus- 
picion generally rests on one individual, 
or more, who was known to have been r,: 
enmity with the deceased ; or the family cf 
the dead person are consulted, and they 
seldom fail to accuse some one of having 
"made witch" for their dead relative. 
It sometimes happens, however, that no 
particular person is accused; in which case 
it is incumbent on the ** gree-gree man," or 
doctor, (a very important and influential 
personage in every community,) to point 
out the culprit. The accused person is 
obliged to undergo the infallible ordeal of 



APPENDIX. 



47 



Native Africans in Liberia. 



'< drinking sassa-vvood ;" especially if the 
deceased had been a person of conse- 
quence. This drinking of sassa-wood, 
which is a universal test of witchcraft, 
consists in swallowing large quantities of 
J infusion of the bark of the sassa^wood 
38 — gulping it down until the distended 
. omach will not receive any more. If 
:e person rejects from his stomach this 
■tisonous infusionj and lives, his inno- 
.nce is established ; but if he retains it, 
id consequently dies, his cruel tormen- 
rs are satisfied of his guilt. 
Any person is liable to be accused of 
"vvitchcraft, or of having caused the death 
fa deceased person ; but generally some 
Id person is fixed on — one whom they 
'ish to get out of the way ; or some per- 
on with whom the relatives of the de- 
eased are at variance, and on whom they 
f'ish to take revenge, for some imaginary 
^r real injury. This is a very common 
/ay of bemg revenged. Sometimes the 
^dividual who dies points out, before 
leath, the person who is accused ; and, in 
ome cases, it is for some injury done 
oany years before^ by the accused person 
iimself, or by one of the same family, 
who may already have died. The natives 
of Africa generally are very revengeful, 
rhey harbor such feelings for a long time ; 
nor are they very particular as to the indi- 
vidual on whom they take revenge : if he 
or she belongs to the same family, it is 
enough. Although the drinking of sassa- 
wood is professedly regarded as a test of 
witchcraft, yet perhaps, in most cases, the 
death of the unfortunate individual who 
falls a victim to this murderous practice is 
previously concerted ; and in those cases 
in which the death of the accused person 
is not desired by the principal operators in 
this tragical ordeal, the infusion is made so 
weak as not to produce death. In some 
cases the victim is unceremoniously beat 
to death, after having swallowed the liquid. 
So that, in some cases, the result of this 
operation of drinking sassa-wood is preme- 
ditated. And, though a considerable num- 
ber recover, after having submitted to this 
absurd ordeal, yet thousands, perhaps mil- 
lions^ have been immolated on this altar 
of African su perstition . 

Most of the natives carry something 
about them, which they call ♦' gree-gree^" 
the object of which is to protect them from 
the various ills to which '• flesh is heir." 
Each of these gree-grees is carried for 
some specific purpose — toprotectthem from 
some particular danger. They are gener- 
ally suspended around their necks, and 
are made of various substances, in all 



imaginable shapes. They all are consc 
crated by the gree*gree man, or doctor. 
Some are made of the end of a ram 'shorn, 
filled with a mysterious charm by the 
gree-gree man; others are more complex 
in their workmanship, and of course more 
various in their potency. Some persons 
are literally loaded with these foolish amtt- 
lets. They have gun gree-greeSj water, 
fire, poison, war, and I know not how 
many other kinds, to protect them from 
different kinds of danger. And it is very 
difficult to induce -any of them to sell any 
of these foolish appendages. 

The prevailing form of worship among 
the aborigines in the vicinity of Liberia, 
(if indeed j it can be said that they really 
worship anything,) is what may be em- 
phatically called Devil Worship— a. kind of 
superstitious reverence and dread of his 
Satanic Majesty — which consists not in 
public acts of solemn worship, but in 
undefined conceptions of the power and 
agency of the Devil, in all their affairs ; 
and in various nonsensical methods to 
court his favor or to avoid his displeasure. 

In the vicinity of many of the towns, a 
small place is set apart in the dense forest, 
which is called the " devil-bush." At a 
certain age, or sometime during boyhood 
or adolescence, the male youths are ad- 
mitted formally into the privileges and du- 
ties of manhood, by being brought into 
the vicinity of the devil-bush, and receiv* 
ing certain mysterious instructions from 
the " devil-man," who remains concealed 
from view. Previous to this important 
period in the life of the young neophyte^ 
he is not permitted to take any part in 
the affairs of state, or even to know any* 
thing of the judicial proceedings — a pro- 
scription which extends not only to the 
young, but to all who have not been 
initiated into the wonderful mysteries of 
this chartered university. The mysterious, 
mighty devil-man is none other than one 
of their own people, who, at certain pe- 
riods, emerges from his temporary conceal- 
ment, dressed in the most fantastical man- 
ner, and presenting a most frightful ap- 
pearance. While he is entering the town, 
in order to engage in the " devil-plays," 
he blows a huge horn ; at the sound of 
which the women and children are obliged 
to fly for their lives. The principal ob- 
ject of the ceremonies of the " devil-bush" 
seems to be to keep the ivomen under sub- 
jection. In Africa, as well as in every 
other uncivilized country, women are 
made "hewers of wood and drawers of 
water ;" they are compelled to perform a 
great part of the labor necessary to the 



48 



SKETCHES OF LIBERIA 



Native Africans in Liberia. 



subsistence of their lordly spouses : they 
sow the rice, plant the cassadas, and at- 
tend to the principal duties of husbandry ; 
and, in all things, they are obliged to yield 
submissively to the will of the men. They 
are not permitted to be present, or even 
to be within sight or hearing, under pen- 
alty of death, during the ceremonies of the 
«' devil-play ;" nor are they allowed, at 
any time, under any circumstances, to 
enter or to come near the place of residence 
of the vicegerent of the arch-deceiver. 
They are kept profoundly ignorant of all 
these proceedings, and of everything else 
which would tend to place them on an 
equality with their tyrannical rulers — the 
men. 

A place similar to the devil-bush is set 
apart in the vicinity of most of the towns, 
as a seminary for young females. This 
is called the " gree-gree bush." A small 
spot of ground is cleared, in the midst of 
a dense piece of forest ; a few huts are 
erected on this cleared spot ; and in this 
sacred retreat, consecrated to female chas- 
tity, the young and innocent damsels are 
placed, and kept under the direction and 
instructions of an old woman, whose busi- 
ness is to instruct them in all the duties 
pertaining to their condition, as maidens, 
and to the connubial state. Those girls 
who are placed in this female seminary are 
generally, perhaps always, betrothed, or 
rather sold, by their parents, before their 
entrance — sometimes, indeed, from their 
infancy. And here they are generallly 
kept until the time of celebration of the 
iniptials with their previously-affianced 
lords. Males are never permitted to enter 
tlie abode of these innocent creatures, 
under any circumstances whatever — not 
even their fathers or brothers. Nor are 
the girls allowed to leave their allotted 
place, except when jiccompanied by their 
eged preceptress. And even on occasions 
when they are brought out of their place 
of confinement, they are not permitted to 
say any thing to any individual of the 
other sex. 

The natives in the vicinity of Liberia uni- 
versally believe in the existence of a Su- 
preme Being ; but they never offer any 
kind of rehgious worship to him ; and 
their conceptions of his character are ex- 
ceedingly grovelling and undefined. They 
R;so believe in the existence of a principle 
v/ithin the body, which must survive its 
dissolution ; but they have no definite 



ideas respecting the future state of exis- 
tence. Indeed, in all that relates to the 
nature of the human soul, and to its 
future destiny, their views are exceeding- 
ly indefinite, and they abound in contradic- 
tions and absurdities. To reduce the dis- 
cordant elements of the native African's 
creed to anything like the unity and 
consistency of a system, would require a 
I heavy draught on the imagination of the 
j compiler. 

I In reference to the moral and intellectual 
I condition of the native tribes in the vicinity 
' of Liberia, and, I may add, thioughout 
the greater part of Western and Southern 
Africa, a picture sad and gloomy meets 
the eye of the observer, and causes the 
Christian philanthropist to mourn over the 
moral desolation of these degraded beings. 
For centuries they have been utterly desti- 
tute of the restraints of morality, as well 
as of the benign influences of Christianity; 
and from one depth of degradation to a 
deeper still, they have been sinking, until, 
among many of the tribes, the last vestiges 
of humanity almost seem to be merging 
into an allied proximity with the wild 
beasts of the forest. 

In energy and activity of mind, they 
are inferior to most other portions or class- 
es of the human race. In the language 
of one who well understands the African 
character: "A few local associations; 
a limited number of acquaintances among 
their own people, (all equally ignorant,) 
some knowledge of raising the bare neces- 
saries of life ; a few traditionary stories, 
handed down from father to son, and 
rehearsed in their social groups, as pastime, 
and a superficial knowledge of the super- 
stitions of their forefathers, comprise about 
the sum total of their stores of knowledge. 
They saunter through life, conscious that 
they shall exist hereafter, but strangely 
indifferent as to the nature or conditions 
of that existence." And, in reference to 
the mental imbecility and the indifference 
to intellectual improvement among these 
degraded sons and daughters of Ham, I 
may add, in the language of the same 
careful and experienced observer, (Rev. J. 
L. Wilson,) " In whatever point of light 
we contemplate the African mind, it pres- 
ents little else than an inextricable maze 
of ignorance, credulity, and superstition, 
from which it can never be disengaged 
except by the life-giving and light-impart- 
ing influences of Christianity. " 



Y\ 1621^ 



\ 



r LIBRARY OF CONGRESS ^ 

019 937 262 2 



HoUinger Corp. 



